The surf by me wasn't perfect, but my day was. I waited for the afternoon tide to fill in at a spot I'd seen working the previous day, and in the meantime, skated ramp for a couple of hours. ****ed my knee up skating but pushed through it and had a session for the memory books. Hurting today, but it was worth it. It wasn't peeling perfectly; in fact, it was closing out more often than not. But this made people try other spots, and I was able to share this with a couple of guys until it was too dark to see.
after speaking with a few other surfer people at my job,and them saying the same thing now I don't feel so bad.I just hate when we have to wait for the swell,as normal,and it comes,got all my gear already packed in the car,head straight to the beach after work,then get worked on every wave.idk mybe it was the board,maybe it was an offday,I just couldn't get down the face,got thrown with the lip 9 out of 10 waves. Belmar is too crowded for me.i work with a few surfers,we're not really friends,just say good morning to each other lol,I just don't like asking random people hey do u want to surf with me,then have them thinking im gonna bring 30 people to their secret spot.the waves were breaking really fast yesterday,just hard to get down the face and stick the drop.and now the winds crapped out for Thursday/Friday,hopefully it changes like it usually does.
Write it off as being an off day and as someone who is 9 times out 10 riding solo it is nice to have some buds to share the stoke with
Hey bro- I'm bummed to hear About your session - where I paddled out it was peeling perfectly- super easy to make and easy to ride- all the way to the beach. But the tide was mid to high.. So if it wAs low maybe that's the problem.. Too shallow and you where getting pitched. Ok ok... Brah I'm going out on a limb here- I want to help out... I will tell you the spot that's always abreaking.. Just don't bring the insta-crowd and all your friends... Here's a clue- 20th ave. artificial reef. Belmar..
