Yeah...If I don't have the plague. Everyone around me at work is sick, and mo fuggers keep coming in and breathing all over me. Feel like a$$ today. Ugh. Maybe salt water+sun will help, if not then murder it with vodka.
Never done a car drift...typically paddle out by a pier and catch a few then do the walk back....rinse repeat!
Did the drift thing one big Hurricane swell in Stone Harbor. Wind was offshore, but still some current and all big lefts. Rather than fighting against that, we drifted from 96th street to Nuns beach (about 3/4 of a mile). I surfed OVER a jetty that day. I saw it coming, and was getting ready to kick out, and realized I would still have about 3-4 feet of wave to work with above the rocks, so I took the high line, and then kept going for another 30 yards. This was long before they buried all the jetties in SH, and the 96th street pavilion would have water under it at high tide.
Im stoked to see everyone whom is down to get kicked around in the onshore chunky swell. Anyone can surf on a 3'-4' glassy day and it seem that EVERYONE is surfing those primo conditions. Id love to see a stronger attendance on the gnarly days when you have to really earn the good stuff. I feel that it makes you really appreciate the clean days!!!!!
As excited as I am to see a week of waves, I'm wondering how many days I'll actually be able to take the trip on the train. But it will be worth it. Either way, gonna be some fun lefts out there, and hopefully some cover. Get your sh*t done over the weekend guys, fall is showing up in style!
I have no problems with wearing any gear or cold temps, with proper preparation surfing in those conditions are manageable.
looked sorta fun down south this morning on the cam even with the drained out tide. live winds on surfline said N-NNW.
The NNW was just a tease here this AM. Went out a couple hours ago, paine in the arse getting out. Drifted like mad, made one drop, then took several on the head, said f this and bailed.