I’ve been staring at that for two months now so I feel your pain Bruh.. Today was like an intervention for me lol
I had to go back and read my posts to see how many days. I counted 10 days that were at least waist - chest high, a few that were shoulder / head high. There were more days in the waist high range, and many more in the knee-waist range. June was a complete bust, but July was really fun with rideable surf almost every day at the right tide. Only a few were unrideable. August hasn’t been as good, better than June but pretty weak if nothing changes. Bring back July or let’s get on to September.
Decent...short board east coast perspective, stomach to chest, 3 days at best down here and missed one of them....just going a little nuts. With an El Nino starting might be a bust on the Hurricane season too.
El Niño es no bueno? Yea, I probably only surfed 3-4 days on my shortie. I surfed my 8’ board more...Haven’t surfed in weeks. This past little thigh high bump wasn’t worth the effort...
I've heard a number of people around here argue that it's been a much better than average summer for waves, and I really don't see it. I guess there've been a lot of days in the choppy knee to thigh high range (maybe some of those were cleanish earlier in the day if you could get out on the right tide?) so technically it's been possible to paddle out, catch a wave, and stand up, but... I can think of two days a few weeks ago that were legitimately good, and that's pretty much it. A Thursday morning that was overhead on sets and shockingly heavy for the time of year and probably the only time since I was an absolute beginner I've gotten denied on multiple paddle out attempts in the middle of summer, and the following Friday that was still solidly chest + and powerful. And I've had a couple other days that were in the waist high range and moderately fun (yesterday being one of them). But that's really it. Maybe I'm just jaded or spoiled after the fall and winter we had (and by fall and winter I really mean September and March, respectively)? And come to think of it, most (all?) of the people I've heard argue it's been a good summer don't really surf here in the dead of winter. It could be worse, like two summers ago when I swear it was dead flat for like three months straight. But last year was a lot better imo... multiple fun swells of at least waist to chest throughout june and july, hurricane gert one of the funnest days I've ever had here in mid august, couple more big days in late august, and then nonstop rideable overhead waves for a month straight in september. I think only one day this summer would be in the top ten from last year. Shit, I don't think I could make a top ten list this summer... the last few spots on the list would be days I didn't even surf, just rolled up and saw knee high chop with 30 people out and found something else to do instead... (I'm exaggerating slightly, I've def surfed ten times this summer, but it ain't a whole lot more than that and over the past three weeks it's only been 2 or 3 times.) I don't expect fall/winter waves in the summer, and normally with the warm air and water and lack of rubber I can still have a blast on smaller and less than perfectly clean waves, but it's been a real struggle to find anything that motivates me to even paddle out this year.
I forgot to mention about 90% of the morning sessions had offshore wind or no wind. Some days stayed offshore, others had a light sea breeze in the afternoon / evening. Most sessions were semi clean - glassy conditions, a few were semi choppy - choppy conditions. I rode all of my boarts, short and long.
I sat down last night and looked back to last year in pics - I take them every time i surf, just like a trophy lol, and last year I surfed decent thigh high waist high 13 times between June and the end of August including those hooreecanes days of big stuff that I mostly just made big splashes in; this year? Two up until yesterday. So yes, it’s been different and depending on where you were it was still decent but for many places it has been a total wash... but I’m speaking from the point of view of that season last year and the dozens and dozens of days of just glassy perfection for days at a stretch, all the way into late December. Then starting again this feb with 70 degree days and three day swells... But I see a shift in winds and weather around here and yesterday was a preview I think so I’m hopeful. It was crazy though... it’s been small to flat for so long it took me almost half the session to get my timing and wave choice right to actually get going down a face. Paddled out. But it was pure stoke watching my daughter laugh and surf and be a happy kid. As far as I’m concerned, yesterday was 8’ and perfect.
if you really want to get depressed, check out the pipeline cam https://explore.org/livecams/hawaii/hawaii-pipeline-cam
And we're sure to have another really awesome winter with huge snow totals and lots of powder riding!