nc guy

I just saw it

I just saw it. My typcial routine is to check surfline first thing in the morning then come here if I have time , and I was proud as well to see that "fish kid" getting props. Brett Barley amde a name for himself last year and now Fisher Heverly on the north shore. Guess chasing and charging heavy pits in Rodanthe and Buxton have paid off. Been in some heavy stuff down there so its a about he best training ground on the east coast for heavy water.

 

Don't want to hate...Good for a Carolina boy getting some props... but seriously isn't any one else tired of this BS. The mainstream surf media headlines always seem to say "Oh my gosh! Its someone from the east coast besides Slater and they can actually surf" **** that! Then all this hype a bout Jaws in the dark... big wave riding, even in the dark... is still riding waves going straight & pretty freaking boring. ESM is gold... all others blow monkey cock.

 

Fish rips making EI proud.

 

I agree dude. I have always told guys in CA and HI, that I "personally" think that riding a DOH day in OBX is WAAAAAAY more difficult that ANY day at pipeline. I mean, yeah you can go float around avoiding sets all day, but I have seen photos of that Heaverly kid for the past few years, just getting INSANE barrels down on the banks... I saw a film strip of one session from him, he was covered up like on 20 waves, in one session, no sh**. He was all over it. And doing that is more balls to the wall to me that a typical day at pipe. a giant, gaping tube that puts you off in a pillow of sand.... Im not saying its easy, but if people would take a look at some of the mean, incredibly fast tubes down in OBX, they would stop being surprised by guys ripping on the north shore....

My point is, I would assume that you take a much more severe beating on a huge day down in OBX than the perfectly lined up, reef peaks that hit the same 50 yard strech of lineup with every set. On most days, there are total kooks floating out on the shoulder at pipe. There are Zero kooks out in big sh** on the banks. You cant even paddle out there unless you are skilled.

 

But to comment on the photo, TURN AROUND MAN, there is a HUGE barrel behind you!!! From the setup there, it looks like he was trying to get the hell out of dodge before getting eaten up! He was way out in front.

 

i concur with zach. it's so hard to predict a beachbreak. when i went to costa last april it was going off, like 8ft and perfect (kinda closing out that big) yet it was impossible to get barreled cuz it was so shifty and so much sand and water is moving at that big, but when its a reef you don't really have to worry about it. I have some pic's of some amazing photos yet i didn't have a wave like from like my photos because it was so hard to be in position. I remember the 1st day at costa we rolled up at like 6am at hermosa and no lie where we paddled out (at tulin) there was a dead guy washed up on the beach which scared the hell out of us (for obvious reasons). It was macking, kinda closing out, but it was the 1st day there and we were frothin' so we went out and i ended up catching only 3 waves (shoulder too....i know soft) but my point is that it was so different. I was in costa for 10 days, and if i had 4 more days i probably would have figured it out. But back to the topic, the only person i saw get barrled at hermosa (and come out) was the costa rican national champ (i forget his name). he ruled out there.
BUT this is the reason why i am so excited for the quik pro NY and hope theres killer surf for it because i want to see how they handle the fickle surf....im sure there gonna own it but still. jut my 0.02 and some weird story

 

Zach is 100% correct. I just got back from HI and was there for many huge swells. I surfed Alia (no idea how to spell) beach park when the swell was 8-12 hawaiin and paddled right out - unfortunately I was scared poopless when the sets came but it was an easy paddle out (simple actually). Have had way harder times paddling out in OBX.