new big waves book

i was interested in reading this book until both the reviewer & author both underhandedly insulted surfers by implying that surfer's are stupid, saying, "The other wave elites are the brainy scientists who are working to create better climate models and forecasts. Their presence at the 10th International Workshop and Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting and Coastal Hazard Symposium in Hawaii temporarily tripled “the North Shore’s per capita I.Q.,” Casey notes."
by saying this, both show their ignorance of surfing & the author shows that she clearly learned little or nothing from her time w/ laird hamilton & other big wave surfers, b/c most who spend their lives chasing giant surf, as laird, the long borthers, grant baker, flea, & others do tend to have as much, if not more knowledge of the conditions that create giant waves than the phd's do. it might not be as scientific, as thoroughly documented, or as articulately stated, but they have that knowledge nonetheless.
she may have written a book, but the author learned nothing. typical of people who aren't surfers trying to write about it.

 

"If all goes right, the rider gets “inside the barrel", a place that surfers regard with reverence,"

lmao

 

Ehhhh, typical Manhattan-ite elitism. Unless a surfing book is written by a surfer, even a bad one, I'm not interested.

 

that's a great mindset to have, & in this case it appears the author could have done a better job w/ her book by utilizing that sort of mindset.

 

from the review, it looks like it's a book report from somebody who ain't gotta clue...

 

Right you are. It's funny how I take that mindset in just about every other aspect of my life. I've decided, however, that you can never really understand surfing unless you do it. If she had just strolled down to Waikiki and took some lessons from the beach boys, I'd give her a second look.

 

perhaps just another journalist trying to make some cash in on the popularity train and allure of big wave surfing.

 

I doubt I'll actually ever read this one, but I liked:
"Hamilton’s presence rattled the other surfers; if he was there “they all knew, the waves would be serious.”"

and "An emotional retelling by Hamilton reveals he may have glimpsed something he fears more than death: “being pounded so bad that psychologically you don’t recover.” Lickle has never tow-surfed giant waves again."