Even though its a long board, I'm guessing it would probably look something like this. Specifically the tilting of the board dd. This guy sure does a good job at it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKfUQ_AsrO4
Hey bud. Haven't taken the time to read through everything. How much are they asking? Is it new or used? Thing sounds like a tank and a good board to try. Remember it can take up to 3 months to like a new board. Psyched to read your post.
Oh and there's a tough shot you'll be able to duck dive it. I'd just ditch and grab the leash near the board so the board doesn't shoot out and yank your leg/hit anyone behind you/damage the board. My advice is worry about getting waves and getting out there every second and prepare to be humbled. Every new board is humbling especially when you make a drastic change or try something new but the more boards you can ride the better equipped you are for different situations on a ride.
You don't really need to duck dive sometimes. If you have a nice spot and a nice paddle out zone you can creep into the take off zone from the side. It also depends on wave size if it's under 3 ft it doesn't matter anyway as long as you know how to Nava gate a lineup strategically. If it's like over 6ft it's kind of a make it up until your in the lineup deal anyway.
Can we get further commentary on this and if lessening the slack for the inevitable yank at the leash plug end helps prevent leash breaks? Seems like it would lower the incidence of leash breakage. However, any chance of leash breakage sucks and the more gnarly the conditions the worse it sucks. Another concern is in a real strong spin getting your shoulder yanked by the board and there's a ton of ways that can do permanent damage to you. On the other hand, if there are ways to greatly decrease the liability of diving through a wave off the board I'd like to know because whenever I am forced to do it, getting through the wave is a breeze and actually fun. Just doesn't seem like it's ever worth the risk of losing your stick if you're still on your board and can DD.
Agreed. Especially at beachbreaks without decent channels because of conditions and period and if waves are breaking everywhere making soup where rips would be. When it's peaky all around you gotta do what you gotta do and just get the hell out back. Be creative yet smart.
Emass bud whatever I can do for you my friend. I have blown out a few leash plugs when I was less experienced because I would freak when a bomb came in and throw my board like it was a hot potato. Got sick of blowing the leash plug ( not a good repair for the boards health) and pissing off people behind me so when I ditch I grab the fat part of my leash strap and haven't had a problema. I think its the jerking of the board that can tear the plug (unless its a beast wave) if you have it held already you can control the tension more. Just really be aware of where you are at on the leash. I leave a an extra inch because if your way too close it would hurt your hand. I feel like if there is someone else within 6'8 of me and they eat board they should not have been that close on my rear. Duck dives rule the day but there is a zone that we call get caught in that ditching rules the day, this is usually when the waves are bombing. To the thread poster a lot of times paddling like hell into the wave will work some magic, especially with a tank like that. It is all fun. Long post for me... I am a member of the "You can't have too many boards just not enough places to put them school of thought"
Exactly if you can't handle your board get out of the water. Which includes being smart enough to know when to ditch. Wasn't there but it sounds like they were both in the wrong position. If you don't know that you are the kook. Don't come after me. Idiot. Don't reply to anything I say again and from here until eternity I have no respect for you big shot.
Best surfer in the world has to ditch from time to time. Especially with a 3 1/2 inch board, so if Slater would have to ditch obviously a normal surfer would. Gaf. I can surf not going pro but I am never drowning in the lineup attached to my funboard. I tell it like it is. You come off like a real insecure "surfer bro" calling someone a kook. Get real. F off, you look like a real douche attacking me when I am giving someone else advice. KOOK?
If you are paddling out to the lineup you should never ditch your board. Rule. Unless you are in bombing 23 footers, there is no need to ditch your board while paddling out. EVER. You are a danger to yourself and others if this is something you are advising people to do.
OK Pancho. If a beginner man has a 3.5 foot 6'8 fish I'd rather he grabs by the plug and controls his board rather than a failed duck dive and personally eat his board. Difference between ditching board and choosing not to duck dive and controlling board. Never ditched your board mikey? Doubt it. Why not advise people how to properly do it? Thread starter is obviously going to have to ditch that thing. BTW thread starter do your thing, it is a surf forum so the minuteness gets exaggerated for no reason. Keep surfing and posting.
Wow, what an a$$hole. Moderator should just pull the plug on your IP. It is clear that bub did not have in mind to jump off and let the thing rip into people behind you. I am out in shore break sandbars and many times jump off and just hold the board under my arm or by the plug so to river don't take me any further back. It would totally classify as 'ditching' by classy San Diago standards. As far as OP advice goes, long story short- make friends with your long board. Just do it. You'll have more fun and actually get some waves. That is just my opinion, though. This weird super volumous fun shape something as a step towards short board..? I donno, man..that train may have left the station a while back. Not necessarily but maybe you shouldn't care anyways and just enjoy your LB. However, if you are planning to move to north shore, then ignore what I just said.
I agree someone should not be advised to ditch a board. I got hit in the face with a board someone bailed on and it haunts me anytime I see someone in front of me paddling out. It taught me not to paddle directly behind people though. But come on...your only kidding yourself if you "never" ditch. I mean winter time, 5/4, 5 mil gloves and boots and an 8-10ft Hatteras bomb drops on your head? Your not holding onto your board, with gloves, underwater during that, doesn't matter who you are.
To gaf's credit though, in the 10 years I lived in SD I can't remember ever having to bail on a duckdive. Not wearing gloves and having the luxury of channels help this situation out a lot, so I can understand his view. It just doesn't apply to wintertime here.
all4blues, you're talking about winter waves and mentioning Hatteras? The absolute coldest you get is 59F. Bro, take a stroll into 36F water in 6F air with 20+mph winds. That's winter bro. Not everyday here but within the realm of that on a fairly regular basis. Agreed that when you're getting pummeled by frosty gnar you've got more to worry about than gripping your board. However one of my few leash snaps ever was in mid-February last year in soupy 7'+ gnar. If I didn't have a rock jetty to sidestroke to 50 yards away it could've been game over. Without a board and exhausted from getting spun 3x is no way to be in heavy winter waves. This is a tough topic all around. We need that board for floatation. But it's a liability of a few levels for self and others. The worst liability is probably not having that board in the heavy.
Couple points: - That board has HUGE volume. For me, I'd say it's too huge to even consider it a step down from a LB. - A normal fun shape (7'6") is a good intermediate. I went from a 10'2" barge to a 7'6" fun, and it was a manageable and enjoyable transition. I later went from the 7'6" to a 6'2" and it was a STRUGGLE. Took me months to get my first ride all the way down the line. I'm small, in my early 30's and a good enough athlete. - Rare chance for people to be duck diving a LB in monster waves. I never see LB's out in big (winter) waves. That said, forget duck diving something that huge. - Why has no one mentioned the old turtle roll? This is a highly effective way to get through breaking waves on a board you can't duck dive. BTW: this is the best instructional thread about duck diving. The idea is burying one rail before the other is of great interest.
Great technical thread, and as expected some difference in opinions. We have all had to ditch our boards, and sometimes we have lost our boards trying to get out in large unruly surf, during clean up sets on big days, during rogue sets in far off lands, and it sucks. This should be avoided at all costs. To willfully ditch ones board is irresponsible unless you are the only one out, and there is no one in the shore break playing in the sand, and no kids running up and down the beach. In a functioning surfing lineup this is extremely dysfuncional, dangerous, selfish and disrespectful.
Actually no i do not ditch my board. It is way to crowded here to ever use that as an option. Unless its huge, or you are alone. Hold on to your board, for the safety of all.