New surfer, cant seem to get on waves

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by Fllbdr, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. Fllbdr

    Fllbdr New Member

    Nov 7, 2018
    FllbdrNew Member
    New to the forum and surfing in general. I have a couple of years of paddle surfing under my belt but decided to join the ranks of the traditional surfer and wound up with two different longboards...long story. In any event, I live in Northwest Florida on the Gulf Coast so we do not consistently get very surfable waves which brings me to my primary question: Our break is primarily a very shallow shore closeout that dumps on a sand bar in 1 to 2 feet of water. Wind waves and wind chop is fairly common but the waves are generally small, weakish, and peak fairly quickly before breaking so there is very little time to paddle in and get up on the wave. Probably not ideal conditions for a new surfer. My boards are a 9'1 x 24 dolsey with about 100 liters ( its really thick) and a torq 9' with 79 liters. I weigh about 190 pounds (85kilos i think?). Problem is the dolsey has a hard time getting up on plane. I paddle like mad get a good glide but the waves still roll under me and the board never takes off. I assumed because the board has so much volume that it would catch almost anything without much difficulty but it doesn't. I am not sure of this is due to just poor and weak waves, poor timing on my part which is a possibility being that I am new or the fact that it has a fair amount of rocker...its not a flat rocker like a lot of old school nose riders.I am not sure if it's built for slightly bigger waves, say 3 ft or better due to the amount of rocker, or if its too much foam for my body weight which I don't think would be an issue. I am also wondering if getting a slightly longer, say 10ft, board with very low rocker would help on the tiny crappy waves we get here. The torq seems to do a little better but I have been focusing on trying to surf the dolsey to decide if I want to keep it or not. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  2. capecodcdog

    capecodcdog Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2012
    Greeting fll*,

    If this is a serious inquiry I would say try to prone ride (belly ride) it like a boogie board. If you can get into waves like that, and ride them, then you should be able to sense when "it has the wave" and pop up. Make sure you know where the balance point (sweet spot) is on the board, so that when you popup you have your feet proper so you wont lose speed. Do some burpees (squat thrusts for popup conditioning).

  3. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    This has to be a spam bot, he’s posted the same thread multiple times.
  4. capecodcdog

    capecodcdog Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2012
    I thought it might be .. either spambots are getting more sophisticated with AI (like an MIT media labs experiment), or maybe a total newbie fat thumbing the post or not knowing the propre tread locale.

    Will may find out the case if fllbdr isn't an abandoneer.
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2018
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.
  5. Yankkee

    Yankkee Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2017
    In the old Yee Olde Fourumme, this OP would have been told to go kill himself already....or at least learne to tye a propere leashe knot......

  6. capecodcdog

    capecodcdog Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2012
    True dat, but it would be fraudulent for me to speak for or steal another forumme member's line/schtick.

    Where's u2b anyway?

    And btw, I would have pointed out an impropre leg rope, but this clearly isn't the OP's issue.:cool:
    Yankkee likes this.
  7. Fllbdr

    Fllbdr New Member

    Nov 7, 2018
    Not a spam bot. The double post under this group was an accident. Posting in two different groups was not, I didn't know which one would get the most visibility and / or which group it would be the most suitable for since my question entails querys about both surfing and board yes I'm guilty....sue me. Back on topic, I am in The Sweet Spot and the board won't get on plane when I'm paddling it in my belly, that was kind of the reason for the post. But more and more I'm starting to think it's just poor timing and crap waves. I don't have any trouble getting onto even small swells on my stand up board, but it also as a lot more surface area. I may just wait for some slightly better and or bigger waves and give it another go.
  8. Yankkee

    Yankkee Well-Known Member

    Nov 8, 2017
    Relocate to Nova Scotia.
    SCOB3YVILLE likes this.
  9. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
  10. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    The waves just sound borderline unsurfable. Is anyone successfully getting rides at that location? I seriously doubt it's the board....those are pretty generic shapes/generic rocker. By the way, 24" is very wide for a longboard, it should paddle just fine, and get on plane just fine. My guess is you are laying down too far back on on the board which is really the only reason the waves just roll under you if you are paddling hard on such a huge board. Scoot forward.

    And find better waves to learn on....that sounds like the biggest issue.
    be.ach.soon and Fllbdr like this.
  11. Fllbdr

    Fllbdr New Member

    Nov 7, 2018
    Oh how I would I love to relocate to somewhere with better surf. And yes they are borderline unsurfable most days. The break is so shallow that you are in less than a foot of water by the time you pop up. Most days we have to wait for a storm to roll through to get decent surf and a lot of times it winds up very sloppy.
    I have started to slide back on the board just a little bit actually, vs forward because before I was having a problem pearling. 24in is pretty wide and 4 inches thick is really fat. Actually this particular board, the Dolsey, was shaped for a big guy in a 250 lb range. The side profile looks like a stand up paddle board until you turn it and look at the top and see it's only 24 inches wide. My torq is your standard one size fits most 9 ft board at 22+ wide and 79 liters. I was hoping for some half way decent two or three footers this winter to practice on, but I'm still waiting. I have all winter to mess around so hopefully by the time spring gets here. I will have had some decent sets roll in. The one redeeming quality about living in Florida is it never really gets that cold in the winter so you can play year round.
  12. be.ach.soon

    be.ach.soon Well-Known Member

    Aug 30, 2015
    I grew up on the panhandle and unfortunately learned to surf on a 6'2 shortboard. Everyone was trying to surf like Kelly Slater. I wish someone would have bought me a longboard. As an adult I have returned to visit family and have learned to travel down with a fat thick SUP. 90% of the time I can find an ankle to knee high wave to surf every day. I mention this because I think you can make surfing work on most days on the Gulf (at least the southwest facing PCB area).

    I think Mitchell has the right idea as to why you are having difficulty catching waves. You probably just need more practice paddling and need to pay attention to your position on the board.

    And don't feel so discouraged about your location. At least your not stuck inland or on the Great Lakes. The Gulf is beautiful and warm and gets good at least a couple times a month.
    Koki Barrels and Panhandler like this.
  13. Panhandler

    Panhandler Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    I would say build up your paddling, take your board out and paddle around or just go swim a few times a week. Then you can sit further out from the break and get onto waves from deeper before it gets too shallow. With a thick board, this shouldn't be too hard. This will help some with overcoming the pearling also. That mainly comes down to confidence though. At least that was in my case. Practice pop-ups, scoot up so the board planes, and commit to the wave. At least if you eat it, its soft sand, not rocks or reef. Not sure where you are on the Gulf, you're right it is not surfable most times, but there are some spots that work better then others. Be.ach.soon hit it, you can ride a couple times a month. It might not bebig, but you just have to be able to drop everything and go when the window opens. This morning was one of those times
    DawnPatrol321 likes this.
  14. Sir_Ballyhoo

    Sir_Ballyhoo Well-Known Member

    Mar 8, 2018
    Drop the attitude/entitlement. Then surf. Stop asking questions about surfing, dont even talk about surfing, just go and surf. Its all about the individual's search.
  15. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    A 3hp trolling motor mounted on the back would be helpful.

    Otherwise, get a 10' Donald Takayama mini barge with no fucking rocker. Or an old Yancey Spencer Sr. - they can be found in your neck of the woods. And paddle in early and often.
  16. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    If you want people to respond, you gotta break you posts into paragraphs. Type 2 or 3 sentences and then hit enter 2 times and start typing again. Look how I do it:

    Careful riding that dolsey into the sand. they are fragile popout boards.

    Get out and paddle more. You gotta build up the right muscles before you can stroke into waves like the real surfers out there.

    What does your mom look like? Got any hot sisters?

    SCOB3YVILLE Well-Known Member

    Nov 16, 2016
    You cant learn to surf on a forrumme. Just keep going, talk to the guys that look like they know what they are doing. Surfers are generally as sholes, but if you're sincere and don't come off as a derelict, you might get some rearry good tips.

    Tip #1 - Wax the top of your feets
    Tip #2 - Post pictures of your 'of age' sister if you want any more tips
  18. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Tip#3 - Regarding 'of age sister':

  19. ltif

    ltif Active Member

    Nov 12, 2016
    you're making Myrtle Beach sound good! at least we have an outer break and an inner break before it gets shallow.

    my LB is pretty sensitive to my position relative to the center of gravity. Just moving forward or backward an inch makes a big difference in how well it planes. Getting forward and the nose down just a bit gives me more speed....too low and i eat it in the closeout.

    capecodcdog is right about belly riding to learn where the sweet spot is.