no surf in fl today

I left my longboard (9' foam) at home for most of the summer. There are no sandbars here anymore, so when the surf is small it's breaking close to shore in shallow water, and I figure that I'm too old (59) to fool with that ****.

It only breaks on the outside now when it's 3 or 4 feet or more. So on the five days this summer when that actually happened, I rode the sponge.

 

north side of mercers, south end of wb, masonboro and lea island have decent sand bars

 

Yes, always good seeing you out there. Even if you are so often mean to me

 

Thanks for the intel. I could paddle my little kayak out to Lea.

 

What?? Betty is mean??? AHHAAAA!!!! No wonder she keeps wishing we get slammed by hurricanes!!!

 

dos xx for president

 

Hey DOSXX there was an article and photo last months Surfer mag of a guy pro surfer riding a pink soft top in a big wave. So, you're on the cutting edge whatever gets you out there and is fun is great.

 

I turned 60 in July. Mt NerfBoard sacrifice didn't take because no one at the church wanted to buy it. I left it there and told the secretary to give it to anyone who wanted it. We're still cursed.

 

It was chest high, punchy wedges and fun this am, only a few crew out. Empty beach due to storms. The lifeguard took his buggy down the beach, and during a lightning storm he told everyone to get back in the water and surf, the statistics were pro in the water, and con on land. He came out too with his board, the killer quad mini mini LB by NA. 6'10" x 21' x 2.75" 41L, swallow tail quad future fin set up, slug template, forward concave to vee out the tail. It flies like Pegasus.

 

I did some shouldre hopping in the choppe this evening following a propre sand reconne. Got a few good rides but low tide was hurting it. Nice to be out on a wave surf riding bored at home though. Nobody in the water, empty beach. Felt kinda frustrated cuz I had nobody to drop in on so I threw my own sh!t in the water before I left.

Life is good. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

I seriously dont know how the world functions, I'm just glad they dont all surf too

 

I made it fifty some years. I can't imagine not surfing now. I'm also gald they don't all surf. Especially the Québécois we get here.

 

Excelsior, especially that last part.

Beaches are getting emptier up here, tis good as a 'tucks.

I, am also, glad they don't surf.

.

#9/12

 

Nice and warm still here in NH. But flat, real flat. I went for a bike ride yesterday--9AM....not a soul anywhere. Looks like gravity let go and everybody floated up into the stratosphere.....same today.

 

o barry

the mornings are getting crispy though aren't they.

Ah, to be in New England in fall.

yewwwww barry, come down and get some S swell with me. We can watch the Golden Girls afterwards.

 

WE HAD WAVES TODAY. fun 2-3-4' windswell not so bad after squalls would pass I'm tryna look towards winter though possibly a cali trip in the works

 

I went out today and it was really fun. Chest high with some bigger sets occasionally. A little mushy earlier in the day but picked up. I'm sore...it's been awhile since I've had to paddle that hard.