Nose Job

http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/show...ort-Repair-Thread&highlight=surf+boart+repair

^^^ Check out this thread, might find some useful nuggets of info to help you out.

 

Go grab the ding all kit from any shop. Also, i would def recommend some whale jizz to mix in with the catalyst for extra adhesion.

 

You can use one of the UV cure kits if you don't care too much about looks. clean up the broken sh*t. Sand it so that you get a trough and the ding all or sun cure doesn't have to go over the top onto the undamaged part of your board. Use tape around the ding to create a little mold for the right shape . . . aplly in a couple of steps . . . you know how to sand, I assume! I like fixing corners. They always seem easier to get shaped right than the bottom of the board . . .

 

If your board is like Michael Jackson it's a dead pedophile

 

Crazy how much sh*t they found at his crib, SMFH at that freak.

 

Use some Soul Glow, I mean, Sun Cure.

 

If you need help with that repair, you should probably stay away from boat hulls.

 

Look at that stringer though. Are you sure this didn't take water?

 

Cut away the delaminated glass and sand an area around the ding (bottom too). Tape off the sanded area around the ding and tape off stringer; trim with razor blade. Mix filler and resin/hardener to make a thick paste that won't flow and fill in the ding completely. Let cure to B stage and pull tape. Let fully cure then sand to shape. Re-tape off the sanded area. Laminate with one 6oz patch just bigger than the size of the ding and a second patch to cover the entire sanded area, lapping the nose onto the bottom. Make a relief cut in the cloth at the tip of the stringer if you need to in order to get the lap down flat. Let cure, then sand the edges and laps fair. Re-tape if you have to, then hotcoat. I make sure the ding is level, and do the hotcoat in two steps... deck side, then bottom... pulling the tape when the resin hits the B stage. Sand it with 80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400 wet, 600 wet.

 

You're right... it did. Even the foam look like it was surfed open. Still fixable, though.

 

Sorry LB, I still gotta say go with the Sun Cure. That thing is too small to go through so much trouble. Anything larger and I am with ya.

 

Considering the OP is asking how to, "seal this up," I'd say your probably right. He should take your advise.

 

I would probably do a full ding repair. I have had Sun Cure on dings where foam is exposed, eventually break down at the seam between the original glass and the sun cure. I typically would sand them well. Not sure but the cloth makes a big difference I think when there is a chunk of glass being replaced.

If you want to dry it out, put a floor fan in front of for hours before attempting to seal.

 

I would listen to everything LBCrew says about board repair. I did a bunch of dings on a board of mine recently following his and others advice and the board is water tight and looks half way decent too. Best of all, it looks like each repair is a permanent fix. I wasn't able to follow every single detail but I did as much as I could with the tools I had along with their advice.

I let a buddy of mine borrow the board this past weekend and he was out there having a blast on it, it was good to see the board back in action. Don't do the suncure unless you HAVE to, to get back in the water, but if you have a little patience and wanna do it right, then put a little more effort into it. That's my .02

 

I have used Sun Cure on quite a few small dings, even with some foam exposed with out any trouble and great results. Only reason I say use it on this, is because it looks to be on the smaller side and it can be pretty user friendly. Anything bigger and for a more solid fix, 100% go with LB!!

 

Lol...LB knows his stuff.
To each her own.
#watertightpriority

 

Another factor is how disposable a board is. Time and effort...reward.