Is it just me or does it seem like the media always seems to locate and write about the one surfer who says stuff like: “It becomes a form of meditation. You fix on one point, the horizon, and you start to feel at one with the rhythm of the ocean. When you’re in that state and you catch a wave, it becomes an effortless dance, a flow....“Before I paddle out, I have a mantra,” he said. “I chant to the aumakua, a Hawaiian word for the gods that dwell in and protect a certain space. I pray to the soul of the ocean, asking for protection, and permission to enter their space... the icy ocean can become a bubbling caldron of spiritual bliss” There's absolutely nothing wrong with any of it, but man...so tired of reading about a side of surfing that pretty much is like 0.1% of it. later...gotta get back to my special warming potion of juice infused with nut butters that i was drinking.
So True... John Doe has been surfing the in NY since the 60's. He takes the bus to the train then walks 3 miles up hill at 4AM everyday to surf before he goes to work as a toilet cleaner. For him the Ocean is his Church where he goes pray to the surf gods and cleanse his soul.
lmao good one.its people like this that makes the world think surfers are a bunch of dirty hippie dopesmokin losers.sure i smoke a handful of reefer from time to time,and i am a loser,so i guess im a soul surfer.heres a passage from my new book "dances with cyclops" here i sit,searching the horizon for the galapogos monster who thrives inside my cold beating heart.as i wait for my set i ponder among the fascination of my daily job of cleaning shytbowls while drinkin my daily regime.alone i sit,and there he is.the wall of water that should soon engulf my conscious with salt water in my lungs.i paddle for the shoulder as lucifer himself rises from the depths and sends me to the sandbar with a lacerated hip and a broken tail.i scurry to the beach like the kook i am,only to discover lucifer was offering me a pardon for my soul.atlast i see,the great cyclops of the sea.... yea i just made that up
I would much rather be in the water with a 45 year old crazy meditative hippy on a 12 foot board then a 16 year old kid with a hot head on a 5'2 that thinks he's kelly slater
