One Piece of Advice...

Agree, front side is way more satisfying even though I'm moving more water on the backside.

 

I have met more people who say this than than the alternative. I can't surf backside for crap, never could. I can do half assed turns and ride forever like a longboard but a good hack? Not so much. Frontside on the other hand I have no problems going vertical and doing a snap or carve and can pump down the line creating tons of speed. If I have ever gotten compliments on my surfing it would be that for a big guy I can generate lots of section beating speed down the line even on a small board. I wish I could improve my backside hack though.

 

Was just watching the Northshore so this one stuck out

"Don't be a Barney, Barney"

Best surfing advice I got when I was younger was when you wipeout in the wash zone and there's other riders around, when you think its ok to come up for air stay down for an extra 5 seconds. That has kept me out of trouble on many occasions at crowded breaks.

 

Probably when i first started and one of the guys getting me into surfing said to just shove the nose down on duck dives. Then i learned how to actually do them.

Something forever in my mind is kalani chapmans line in dark fall "you just gotta go for it. Thats what its all about"

The thing about not hesitating has also helped me put my head down and go on some better waves

 

The best advice I ever got was, "never listen to advice from others".
Others are all morons, as we know.

 

Along those lines, "Believe what you see not what you hear." IOW, believe what you can verify yourself not just what somebody tells you.

 

Find your own LINE

 

"Think for yourself. Question authority" lol

 

Be Decisive

 

Sometimes