Opinion on small old guy short boards

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by sisurfdogg, Apr 16, 2019.

  1. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    I'm 5'9" and 160 lbs and 59 years old, surfing for 45 years. I used to consider myself an advanced surfer. I am having problems getting into critical DOH peaks with howling offshore winds on my 6'6" x 20.5" x 2.6" Orion swallowtail. Any suggestions on a properre boart for good hollow HH plus waves. I don't want any advice from big guys or small young guys. just guys in my size range and old that can still surf good waves (in their mind at least, if not IRL)

    I'm thinking of a round tail and maybe a bit more volume without getting longer. Maybe a tad wider. Any and all suggestions are more than welcomme. Or should I just throw in the towel and get a 7'6" to 8' mini mal with a fin box and two side bites? WWYD?
    Zeroevol and DawnPatrol321 like this.
  2. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    Throw in the towel ya old kook

  3. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
  4. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    I highly recommend the Keto diet and no volume....
    La_Piedra and sisurfdogg like this.
  5. sheetglass

    sheetglass Well-Known Member

    May 12, 2008
    Not an old guy (yet) but my .02 would to be to consider adding a bit of foam to the board to the general area underneath your chest as well as a touch of Vee in the entry just ahead of it. I have a step up version of this board that blends both of these features in expertly: http://stretchboards.com/boards/surfboards/2x4/
    sisurfdogg likes this.
  6. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Get a girlfriend--she will be your best ride ever.....
  7. NNYNJ

    NNYNJ Well-Known Member

    Dec 22, 2017
    Matheson would know
    La_Piedra and DawnPatrol321 like this.
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Have you seen Greg’s improved website? You should consider the Big Mack or the Menace 2 models.





  9. smitty517

    smitty517 Well-Known Member

    Oct 30, 2008
    Suck it (signed the big guys you dont want answers from). Lol
  10. StuckontheGulf

    StuckontheGulf Well-Known Member

    Apr 23, 2012
  11. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    There's a reason old guys surf crumbly point breaks on longboards. Your days of late drops into HH barrels may be slowly coming to an end. I'm 52, and my popups already look more like my uncle getting out of his easy chair.

    However, stay fit, and go down fighting. Also, try golf.
  12. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    My wife would have issues, that's why I get new boards, so I can have a little variety.
    MrBigglesworth and LBCrew like this.
  13. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Thanks guys. You are very kind. Very kind. The kind I don't like lol.

    Yeah, been thinking of a RP shape or calling Greg G and getting some feed back. I like the Big Mac DawnPatrol321 posted, very nice in a 6'6".

    I know damn well that my days of surfing big Pumphouse are long over. I just want to surf good waves well. Not death defying stuff, just 8' cane swells here and maybe some PR or CR juice. Thanks for the advice, I welcomme any and all point of view.

    Not getting a SUP!!!
  14. desandan

    desandan Well-Known Member

    Feb 12, 2013
    Check out the Matador Bandito's - great all around board and reasonably priced. Holds well in the barrel, carves like a short, but has more of a LB paddle feel to it. Range from 5'8'' to 8''. I have a 6'4'' and 6'8'' that are my quiver killers
    sisurfdogg likes this.
  15. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    I like the looks of the Monsta Chief.... but definitely talk to your shaper.
    MrBigglesworth likes this.
  16. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Then buy a curvy board with a vag....
  17. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    smitty517, sigmund and DawnPatrol321 like this.
  18. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Ulala!! Perfect!!
    smitty517 likes this.
  19. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    I'm right behind you and catching up fast age-wise and basically same size/weight/years surfing.

    For good hollow HH waves my go to board is 6'4 x 21" x 2 1/2" round tail egg with five fin boxes and ample nose and tail rocker. I've had the exact same board from same shaper (John Ashton) in a 6'6" x 20 5/8" in the past. I've ridden both boards in well overhead waves as well as just head high and hollow.

    In the past I've also had a few other "big wave" boards that were more pulled in step-up thrusters. I had a 6'10" x 20" Tim Nolte with a pointy nose, and a 6'8" x 19 3/4" Surf Prescriptions. These boards were ok but not as good as the eggs that are a few inches shorter and slightly wider.

    For my anyway, in really hollow waves with late drops, extra length beyond 6'6" feels like its getting in the way of making the steep drop and the nose is hanging up and catching an edge when i think I've made the drop and am about to bottom turn.

    You mentioned HOLLOW waves.

    By comparison, if the waves are big and softer/not hollow then i'd be fine on the 7'+ board for the extra paddle power, knowing that hanging up the front on the drop in is probably not going to be an issue.
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019
  20. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Agreed, longer than 6'6" won't fit. I have a narrow (19.5" W) Kechle 6'9" pointy nose squash tail step up for good rampy waves down here but it lacks the volume for easy entry behind a jacking peak for this old dog.

    Thinking a bit thicker under chest, and a tad more forward weighted (maybe wide point at center or north of center a notch?) with the round tail set up would be a nice ride in pumping surf. Entry rocker not too flat, not too extreme, just right. With modern bottom contours and good foil from the mid rails thru the tail. That's what the pro shapers are for, right?

    Any thoughts on the wide point placement would be especially welcomme.
    Betty likes this.