Opinion on small old guy short boards

You should be emailing Roy

 

The gnome. Great post Z. And here I thought SUPs were a menace...

 

Well, I think having that wide point further back to the rear doesnt alow me the paddle power i like in hollow surf, and exactly why I seem to like the eggy shapes more than the big guy shorty/step up shapes that are longer, but still seem like there not much meat under my chest when I'm digging deep paddling into something i know i dont want to be late on.

 

The wide point further back is THE reason I sold a KStep I bought years ago--no paddle power. Sold it and then had Mike Baron of Byrne make me yet another board with thickness and width under my chest. Remains my best gunny board. Unfortunately, here in NH it doesn't get much use as surf here sucks moose dick.

 

O Barry

 

Wide point back is for aggressive surfing... tight radius turns and snaps... top to bottom surfing off the back foot.

Wide point forward is for down the line speed and carving power turns... puts more rail in the water... and for getting into waves a little earlier (but not for the reason you're probably thinking).

Wide point at center is neutral. A balanced foil for balanced surfing.

There's a place for all three in your quiver.

 

Im old closing in on 64, im about 140 pounds soakin wet,ive been surfing for a longtime and yet i dont think a mini mal or similiar would be good choice for howling offshore doh days,too much nose for that
Im thinkin you just want to get a new board thats not throwin in the towel
Thats just expanding your quiver ,so whatcha gonna get

 

Agree. I prefer option #2. Growing up surfing on reefs in tropics, I suppose.

 

how about something along these lines:
http://www.fcdsurfboards.com/f-rocket

 

Wow, that does look very nice, oi. Thanks for posting that.
Seriously!!
I am not sure if I will ever buy another board--I have 8; do not really need another. I actually want to reduce my quiver to 4.
Also,not sure if there is a need for that here in NH waters. If so, only rarely, very rarely.

 

They suuure did!

 

I'm a big guy not as old as you but here is a sequence of a guy your size and your age who was out in conditions like you describe and he was killing it. His board was an old school 8 foot Dick Brewer mini-gun. He was getting into waves early and easily......far more easily than a modern shorter/wider board would ever let you get in in similar conditions. Food for thought.

 

That’s a sick looking boart!

 

Tons of nose rocker. Works good in bigger, hollow surf.

 

Yeah I see that! Nice boart for those few days we get each year. And it’s red, so you know it’s fast!

 

Its not just a lot of nose rocker. That board is very narrow with a lot of rocker at both ends with a very pulled in tail. Built for steep hollow waves. I'd never seen that guy before or since that I can remember. He was there that one day. Talked to him for a few minutes on the beach and that was it. Very cool board and perfect for the older guy who still wants to charge.

It was very similar in shape to this one: https://www.brewersurfboards.com/shop-surfboards/surfboard-semi-gun

Board on the right: https://www.instagram.com/p/BvafUm1nG5B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

I think that is cool. Different kind of surfing though. Short, with proper volume, and the right rail/tail/fin set up will still allow you to shred (even if it’s in your own mind lol). I have an 8’ board too but it would not be my first choice on those waves. Just thinking out loud...

Btw, my 8’ board looks nothing like that. My last few boards (short boards) have been shaped specifically to get in as early as possible while retaining as much performance as possible.

As I type this, I am realizing that my next few boards may evolve to an 8’ short board too lol...

 

I was standing on the beach today and this guy walked by carrying a board that made me think of this thread. I didn't talk to him, but it looks to be in the 7+ foot range, and like it would handle size.