Got stuck in the wash board tomb stoning. Scary stuff Took 8 footer Hawaiian (16' face?) in waist deep water.
I saw that while watching the webcast. He was scraped up really good on his chest and back. Like he said, it's not the scrapes, it's the bruising from impacting the reef, and the bone rattling, organ shaking obliteration he received. The inside at Backdoor is no joke. I'm glad he's basically okay.
like someone on surfline said in a comment its surprising that more of the guys that charge don't get hurt more often
bro, like I said last post THEY DO look up stats for NS LG rescues but it doesnt make surfline Ive gotten licked: in past 2 years: 3 staples in head, 2 concussions, 1 ACL replacement, multiple other lacerations and bruises and I aint even a 'real' charger
so who is king of that peak these days? job/101 brazileros/nextgen hawaii moniz chapman etc et al.... rick from arizona?