Peru: an inside view

well bouys waves have been fun, a couple reeeeal good days here and there, but nothing too too epic besides a couple lucky sessions at la isla and punta rocas. to change it up i headed south to cerro azul. was flat when i got there yesterday, but been surfing non descript overhead death tube closeouts (think the quick standup of a sloppy big day in jerzy or obx coupled with the size current and heavyness of micro ocean beach san fran in boardshorts) a few kilos north of there out front of my friends beachfront luxury grotto (1% peru status). no one out, totally random peaks, heavy, not named and probably rarely if at all surfed before. ita really amazing how much fun rando beach break closeouta with no crowds can be after surfing brand named world class ultra crowd breaks.



southern hemi seems to be picking up so wednesday i will ride the night bus 10 hours to trujillo wait out a swell in huanchaco ( closest beach town) and probably take a bus to chicama one hour next weekends cause there calling for 7-10 in lima which if im lucky may translate to shoulder high peelers for a few kilos in chicama



just dropped below the two grand mark for all my money in the world looks like rice and beans for a while and ceviche for protein. glad i paid rent in advanced so i wont be destitute upon crawling back to tje states in april

 

up north needs swell brother. its been between three to eight tthe whole time down here. need a solid run of south swell to make spots in centrzal peru worth it. north north in loboitos and mancora is flooded out witj rains right now makinhg the roads a no go and besides the later spot work better on a north swell whichn its not in season for.


staying down south for an extra weeks is a tactical decision to surf 3 a days in quality surf for a bit rather then stare at waiste high instacrowd in huanchaco.

 

yea i will in three days im here till first week in april. id rather surfd it proper then jump the gun to chest high. theres a real swell coming end of next week

 

surflines calling 2to 3 at pacas for the next few days. its overhead down here. ill hop on the bus to greet the swell and hopefully spemd the nexy 20 day's hunting perfect left point breaks

 

been thinkin about what ya said bungalowbob and your right.you dont go to peru to surf head high beach break barrel closeouts. ive scored some good waves here on the south coast but the true goods lie up north. ive been waiting out a swell for the north and it looks like someting might finally be coming my way.


sticking around content at my friends luxury beach house for two days has been nice and refreshing (and needed to maintain my physical and mental travel psyche) after three weeks of three a day surf sessions and sleeping in surf rat albeit comfortable hostal accomodations but the naked facts remains: i havent seen true peruvian world class.

sure ive surfed well overhead la isla, punta rocas, gotten shacked on nameless indiscrept beach breaks and gotten pitched into hollow race track reef bombs at senoritas and caballeros but i still havent gotten a double overhead minute long leg burner at chicama or pacosmayo.

yes sir the goods remain northwards and as i dillydally over my mouth watering appetizer of luxury and contentness down south, im forgeting to save room for the main course of lefthanded pointbreak madness. as the days count down towards the last segment of my trip it has come time to act. my window has approached now i throw my last load of laundry in, pack my bags, light up a final spliff of peruvian doo doo brown for the road and purchase my busticket on the dusty road north.


tallyho!

 

bus ticket bought leaving tommorrow ten pm arriving trujillo wednesday morning. swell forcasted to peak 12 feet monday of im lucky