Physical explanation of pumping down wave face

you're pushing against, and displacing, water to the back and sides which helps to propel you forward

I see it akin to tic-tacking on a skateboard or pushing off of alternate skis in an ice-skating fashion to move forward

 

wiggle. wiggle. coast

 

I see it as the same a pumping in a half pipe on your skateboard. When you get to the bottom of the wave you compress your legs and push off. That forces you up the wave higher and with more energy then you would have if you just let the wave catch up to you. You're higher and therefore have more potential energy for gravity to bring you down with. Add to that that the wave is moving. It isn't necessary to travel up and down the entire wave face. A quick up and down will give the same effect. Aka Pumping. Is this consistent with others' experience?

 

^-This.. It's physics. For example, when you spring out of a bottom turn, your legs are driving the board (creating kinetic energy or rather adding more to what was obtained from the drop) up the wave (which increases your potential energy), which when you go back down, the potential energy is converted to kinetic energy. Similarity to skateboard half-pipe is also a good and valid comparison.

You convert kinetic energy to potential energy then back to kinetic energy, with your legs "adding in" more energy and thus :
Kinetic energy at bottom of wave = Kinetic energy at top of wave + Potential Energy at top
1/2*mass * velocityATbottom**2 = 1/2*mass * velocityATtop**2 + mass* gravity* height

You can build up speed "rollercoastering".

Some refs:
http://topex.ucsd.edu/ps/energy.pdf

http://www.popsci.com/adam-weiner/article/2008-10/physics-surfing-part-one-dropping

http://www.exploratorium.edu/theworld/surfing/physics/surfsci2.html

 

I think your talking about that weird hoppy bounce thing guys do right? Since your not talking about pumping down the line? If that's the case don't do it, it looks stupid. If you need to hop up and down like a kangaroo to stay on a dieing wave it's probably time to kick out or grab a bigger board

 

Is "pumping" like hunching down a wave. I always was amused by the hopping up and down guys

 

Ankle tweaks

 

pumping is ankle-finesse.

 

The "weird hoppy bounce thing" aka Huntington Hop has been a shortboard staple for connecting outer bar/reef breaks to the inner shore break - usually at high tides - when there is a deep enough canyon to drop the swell out of its break for a stretch before it reforms.
Sooo you must be the guy that pulls out when the outer break flattens out - for a 5 second ride - instead of making the connection and riding for 10+ seconds.
Yeh. one of Those guys.
Whatever works for ya I guess...

 

Damn, cdog droppin da science!

 

True dat. It's about understanding, applying, and harnessing the laws and principles established by the creator that govern the creation.

 

amen!

 

just buy a carver and you'll figure it out.

 

Joey?

 

All good about hoping in this forum. I hop when I want to get to another section. Doesnt matter if I'm on a long or short board. Creating kenetic energy to increase speed by pushing down and lifting up. It may look silly but it works and i get long long rides out of it. The only penaly.... long paddle back to the lineup. But it beats a 3 second ride that I see so many guys do and that is quite annoying when someone ruins a good long wave for someone else by dropping into a wave a kicking out right away.

 

Yeah, that flappy hop always looks ugly. They're just unweighting their front foot and flapping the nose up and down. It defeats the intended purpose and actually slows you down. If you do a similar movement but with your weight on the front foot and weighting/unweighting you back foot, you can gain a little speed and make a flat section.

But, Curren was the king of the carving pump to make it to the inside section. Check out some old videos of him at Huntington Pier.

 

No sir. Not I.

Exactly.

 

+1k