Physical explanation of pumping down wave face

also there is a very distinct difference between pumping to catch a section and pumping to create speed down the face of a wave you are already on. If you are on a wave and you are "flowing" with the wave it may look like you are pumping but its a more total body kind of motion mostly in the hips. Pumping or hopping to get to another section is completely lacking finesse and only using your legs.

 

Actually its more of an Ollie type move. unweight the front foot to pop it up and as you stomp it back down unweight the back and then stomp on the back to jettison the accumulated bulge of water out the back... gives you little bursts that will keep you on the swell...

 

This is a great tread buoys. We need more of these. So many tech aspects I want your thoughts on.

To me, pumping on a wave for speed (I agree that flowing with the wave is different) on a wave or a Carver is both a compression/extension of skate-type knee bend (knees out in front rather than hips back) and heel to toe transfer as well as a redirection of that force straight down the stringer line to the nose. Need to send that momentum forward or else the rail to rail motion ends up braking you if it's just sent over the toes.

Keep this talk up boys. Got lots of thoughts on it. As for the up/down slapping of the board to make the next section and connect rides, it's got to have credence or you wouldn't see pros do it. I see a lot of intermediate or better riders do it at the wrong time though and when they should be pumping instead.

 

true pumping for speed is flowy as hell. Go watch vids of guys like Buttons doing it or Curren. The hopping flailing is usually to get through mushy sections (aka the Huntington hop).

 

That's what I was trying to say. It's hard to put in words. When it's done right the nose isn't flapping up and down so much as the tail is rising and falling over that bulge of water. Most of you weight should be over the front foot.

 

To say guys who don't hop can't make sections and get more then 3 second rides is completely idiotic

 

Good surfing is so damn flowy. Pumping is part of it. I listen to sic skate vid tracks while I choreograph surf moves on the Carver. That includes pumping.

No doubt. Streamlining it to full functionality while maintaining style.

You just pump like mad to the next one? Or you're on the peak then throwing cuttys like you read about to stay in the power pocket.

 

Honestly I don't know emass, never really thought about it. I just surf and know I don't hop. Listen, I'm not saying the hop dosn't work, I just think it looks terrible. To say I get 3 second rides because I don't hop is silly. There are guys on this forum who I surf with daily, they can vouch for me. Not only do I get rides longer then 3 seconds, I get real long rides all the time. Sb or lb. Don't matter. These guys don't hop either and they get very long rides in to shore all the time. We just did it all morning in waist high crap. Not one hop, basically every ride to shore.

1. Cutbacks are essential, when I surf I like to stay in the pocket ofcourse. So yeah I do cutbacks. But I perform cutbacks....I don't read about cutbacks. Racing out on to the shoulder with out doing a cutback is just poor surfing. If I'm not cutting back I'm doing little speed check type turns to stay in the pocket.

2. Whether or not I pump down the line real hard our not depends on wave really. Every wave is diffrent. Some times I pump like crazy, sometimes not like crazy, sometimes not at all.

I guess it comes down to speed/glide and managing your speed/glide. I really don't know, all I know is I don't hop and I get rides much longer then 3 seconds.......without hoping like a goon

 

Same here dude, hopping is lame, there are better ways to generate speed and keep the ride alive, which you basically covered.