Baaaahahahahahah!!! LOSTSoul... I hear ya, brother. The anxiety of the pre-surf preparations is torture. It's the stuff my nightmares are made of. I had a dream the other night that it was winter, and I just couldn't get my suit on. I'm sitting on the beach, struggling to get into my suit, watching the barrels down the beach, and just couldn't move fast enough. Finally got my boots on and noticed they were on the wrong feet. I never actually surf in my dreams.
ok here is my routine alarm goes off at some random pre-dawn time roll over and blow a line off the cheap oceanview hooker's a5s kick that hoe out chug some beam while pissing in the shower. drive my drunk a5s to the break Get in like 6 fights wax my board for about 30 minutes complain about wind / tide / whatever get in some more fights go home hump your girlfriend. play D&D until its time to go back to that ocean view corner...
second this one... every red light or fumble while putting the suit on is equated to 1 or 2 waves missed. I just keep telling myself: "you are not going fast enough, not moving efficiently enough..." I usually end up taking longer than if I just relaxed, usually end up ripping my wetsuit or locking my keys in the trunk.
I agree with the anticipatory anxiety. It just builds up until I jump on the board and start paddling. Then I get out there and it all fades away.
im over it... i don't think it is possible. between work, wife, dog, training andt life...i just go surf.
I love it! Personally I down a 2 liter of coke and a bag of cheeto's, pull up to the parking lot blaring Lady Gaga, then see that it's going off, step on top of my car butt naked with a huge boner while wailing on the air guitar.
Ha! Too true, man. Last night I dreamed I had an endless bike ride - I never ended up getting to the beach.
Right?! That's why I always say, "I surf with a lot of people, but I don't go surfing with anybody." For that specific reason... I'd start to hate them after about 15 seconds of idle B.S.
exactly...no one seems to be a morning person these days. i show up, coffee in hand, before sunrise every time. CAN'T STAND(!!) having to wake people from their beauty sleep. I just let the bro's know where i'm at so they can show up later.
"no, we can't ride down there together." "why not?" "last time it took you ten minutes to get your board and suit in the car." "so?" "so?! so, that's like three waves I missed. Then you wanted to leave after an hour..."
well now that i am in school in Philly(Drexel) i wake up, take the earliest train to NJ with my friend, get his car, grab some food, jam to my ipod on the way there,(you gotta be in the zone), check a few spots,surf all day. get back to school around 9 and party till 5 am
well, I should clarify - I time it so all this happens pre-dawn. I am usually pulling up to the first spot I check at first light (I actually did my morning routine at starting at 3:45 am one day this summer, late June on a clear night with a full moon, it was light as day at 4:15 am and I was in the water at 4:30.) I was an infantry Marine for 6 yrs trust me when I tell you I have no problem waking up any time of day or night and I also have absolutely zero patience for those who lag. I have a family, a business, pets, a house, a yard etc. my water time is a precious commodity so I am way past the point where I alter my comings and goings to accomodate anyone else. I'll shoot a group text to a few guys i.e."____ is where I'll be at 6 am" but thats it.
4:30? that's sick. Have you ever surfed at night w/ full moon? Thank you for your service by the way.
f#$% yea man. i used to do that in charleston (folly beach) when I was stationed down there. nothing like hitting the lip under the starry night.
Since the spring I've gotten into a strange routine of sitting on the beach for a few minutes and watching how its breaking before I paddle out. I moved recently and that caused me to make the change. Obviously, with the cold weather coming that won't be happening for awhile. But I've got to admit that it really seemed to help in positioning and getting nice barrels. That combined with just thinking about lining up and staying in position more during significant swells really seemed to help in making the most of the sets.
Solo!!!!! All the way. Check bouys/wind/tide like SurferDann & have at it. PS Today was freakin ROCKIN. HOLY MOLLY.....................SHACK CITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
