Puerto Escondido Hold Down

He was getting worked

 

Yes, but no GP in my mouf to prove it.

 

Ive experienced what felt like that, but was probably 1/10 or less as bad. Speaking of Escondido, my buddy and his brother went down there and on his first paddle out the brother was nailed by a set wave right on the back. It broke his back and the board under him like a karate chop. Spent the whole vacation in the hotel room in agony refusing to see a mexican doctor for more than pain killers. Didnt know his back was broken until he was back in the states and x rayed. That place has always scared the sh*t out of me.

 

Yep. When it's that big, I want every molecule of air I can take in for survival.
Great footage though. Live and learn.

 

When you paddle out into bigger surf you have to be ready for those situations. He's fortunate he had his board nearby to hang onto (in one piece). The board becomes a lifeline. When its big like that there is so much air stirred up in the impact zone that it is very difficult to get to the surface because you keep sinking into the aerated water. Just getting above the water for a breath is exhausting. Its hard enough to get ping-ponged by a big wave or two but when a long set runs you down it can get pretty serious, especially if the rips keep you in the impact zone. Always replace your big wave leashes every couple of years as they can age and of course the big boys wear life vests now.. I can think of a few situations where that would have come in handy-

 

I've definitely had a couple gnarly hold downs in surf only a fraction of that size. I can't imagine that ish. But when I was under I could've sworn I wasn't coming back up. It's always when it's too deep and I can't kick off the bottom. The board is definitely a lifeline in times of desperation.

 

He obviously did not wax his board properly....

 

Agreed. Big wave leashes should be replaced annually, however.

 

Didn't this guy make the same exact video for Todos a while back? "How to not surf Todos Santos"

 

^^ +1 oh yeah! it's all coming back now...

 

.

 

Schit that guy had a yellow borte too.


#9/12

#SunilStylee

 

He made it back in by himself and crawled up the beach.

 

Glad he made it back in. I can relate, as most of you know, a year ago today I had my shoulder completely dislocated and my side was sliced wide open from the fin on my board while going through the rinse cycle and I was pinned to the bottom for what seemed like an eternity.

I had to make it back in with DOH sets breaking on top of me while I was trying to hold onto my board with one hand and just get pushed back into shore. It took me about 30-40 minutes to make it back in. There were times where I wasn't sure I'd make it but the will to survive is a powerful thing. It was by far the worst experience I've ever had surfing.

When I finally made it to shore, I just took a knee and assessed the damage and was very thankful I was still breathing (barely). I was in shock and it didn't really hit me what I just went through until about 30 minutes later when the adrenaline dump happened. I was pretty upset that I almost left my wife as a widow in PR on day one of our vacation. It's still in my head every time I paddle out.

It's getting better each time I go out, but I'd be lying if I said I don't get worried when the waves get well overhead now. I didn't break my back, so i'm sure his situation was worse, IDK, but I don't wish what happened to me on anybody.

 

holy cow, that was Gnarls Barkley