Question for Micah

waves have been known to break on staten island if ya look at it on the map it is exposed and also there are a few spots in manasquan inlet that you can ride

 

You can ride the James River in Va. I have surfed there and the Chesapeake Bay.

 

Essentially

. . . there are several ways for waves to show up in atypical areas like bays and rivers:

1) Wind on water over a considerable distance (fetch) and over time wherein the energy of the wind is transferred to the water first creating ripples, and then ripples upon ripples. Oceans are more amenable to these waves first because they have the fetch (size), second because they have the depth to allow free movement of the transferred energy, and third because they allow winds free reign once generated by pressure and temperature differentials.

2) Tidal Bores, where rivers at generally extreme lattitudes can get a wave that travels up from the mouth of the river (as in surfer Rodney Sumpter riding river waves in Nova Scotia). Basically it's the extremes in tides (as much as 30 feet or more) in the extreme lattitudes that cause the waves. The tidal cycle is still around 6 hours, but the extreme inflow is what can literally create a recognizable wave moving upstream.

3) Refracted swell energy- when it gets really big in the ocean, some of that wave energy can make it into an inlet and refract off the jetties all the way into the bay where all it needs is some shallow water like a sandbar to produce a breaking wave, although the size is greatly diminished. Even here, the waves are still affected by wind direction and velocity. Back Bays can also generate their own internal waves (very short period) given enough velocity, fetch and duration. Great Lakes waves have been known to sink ships like the Edmund Fitzgerald.

4) Standing Waves- rivers that have rapids can form standing waves over large boulders, much like a FlowRider does-
. . .and of course there are a multitude of others like boat wake, wave pools, et al. where displacement of water creates the wave either from a boat or from pumping water up into a wall and then releasing it as Typhoon Lagoon does at Disney.

Obviously, some waves are more ridable than others.

 

i usually surf in the belmar inlet when it gets REALLY BIG in the winter

 

i often have dreams of surfing the most obscure places, none of which are in the oceans.

But anyway...

The chances of you surfing a wave in the choptank river is not likely. Unless, you dug out a trench, and created a standing wave when you had enough current moving.

MDSurfer explained things pretty well. For wind produced waves, the ones we generally ride, you need wind blowing over the water.

There are 3 variables that are directly proportional with an increase in wave height:
wind speed
wind fetch (area covered)
wind duration

increasing anyone of those variables will increase your wave height. There is no room in the river you are referring to for any wind fetch, and thus no room for swell production.

If a particular coast is exposed to the swell direction without barriers than it will see swell energy. The ocean bottom contour is the tricky part of the equation, as it can contribute to swell being refracted or defracted (meaning the waves bend towards or away from the coast respectively). The refraction process is responsible for swell sneaking into unexposed areas.

 

Now thats some pretty serious refraction if Lake Erie waves made it all the way up into Lake Superior where the EF sank.

 

Anyone old enough to remember the 1970's song about the Edmund Fitzgerald?

Isn't called a lake wind effect?

 

Isn't this how the boys do it over there at Waimea Bay when there's a big swell with that standing wave? How do they do that?

 

gordon lightfoot - wreck of the edmund fitzgerald... not my type of music but the song just has chilling/compelling lyrics

 

behind the bay is the audibon bird thing and when it rains it fills up the lake real high. when it gets real full of water you can dig out the beach between the lake and the bay and then if you dig it right it makes a little standing wave from all the water draining out into the ocean. you gotta be careful not to have any open cuts or drink the water bc of all the runoff with pig feces and other animal crap

 

last summer I spent 18 days I novia scotia and pei only on 6 of those days was an extreme tide but I got too successfully ride the opening tidal bore wave 3 times. 1 of those days it was a 6 foot wave. illl findd pics and post.

 

There was a spot on Long Island many years ago (might still work, haven't been down there, heard there was a lot of environmental issues) that's a rivermouth. When the town would open the cut, it would make a really sick wave. It's the only time I ever surfed a rivermouth, and I'll probably never do it again. The locals there were brutal!!!!

 

I've seen waves big enough to surf in the James during Hurricane Isabel in 2003. Where have you surfed the James before? Huntington Beach?

 

unusual waves

dog beach in manasquan inlet can get really good for a longboard with lefts that peel for about 200 yards, there is a shoal in barnegat inlet that breaks up to chest high but it's in the middle of the inlet the currents are wicked and its a long paddle, or in the winter and spring when the wind is really hard west, the west side of cape may on the delaware bay is rideable with 1-3 foot onshore chop, there are jetties that can jack the waves up enough and the better breaks are within a mile or two of the ferry, too far north and the bottom gets too flat, surfed in january one year with a quad and it was actually ripable BUT it was 35 degrees out with a 35mph west wind in my face, i also share the interest in unusual waves and I have dreams about perfect barnegat bay all the time

 

Great Lakes Surfers, one of my favorite parts of "Step Into Liquid"

 

anyone ever see the videos or pictures of people surfing rivers in like munich germany its sick like i wish i could like walk into the woods and just go surf the river with no one there thatd be sickest thing ever i dream about it all day

 

On big hurricane swells, or even big noreaster swells. The Manasquan Inlet will hold the swell, so it'll wrap around perfectly for a good 600+ foot point break at Fisherman's Cove.