Yeah, i wish i could wait that long so i could surf the fall, but ears are basically closed. Took the next available appointment, so im set to go under Sept. 21. Not taking the chance of going in until then, unless its absolutely as good as it gets. plus, two months in the scheme of time is nothing. Will be even more frothed up once i get back in the water. check out Dr. Hetzler if your nervous. really nice guy and have heard tons of good reviews. plus, he's perfected the chisel approach so no more drilling.
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Waiting for a few lams to kick... I took this... 9'3 log; pu/pe with nose concave to flat to rolled vee from left... 6'4 battail groveler; epoxy/eps with shallow single to double concave 6'0 fish; epoxy/eps with modern bottom contours 6'6 hpsb; epoxy/eps with single to double concave 7'0 East Coast Gun; pu/pe with vee in the entry to flat to double concaved forward vee
View attachment 5555 View attachment 5555 Here you go. From left to right. 6'0 Richard Price transformer II, sort of like a dumpster diver, my go to board for anything from waist to 2-4 overhead in PR, ridden as a quad in small surf and tri in larger. I can't say enough about this board, EPS and glassed by my friend who shapes with BAT. Second is my 6'4 Orion, Greg Geiselman, super fun potato chip but a hard float these days. Third is my 6'4 BAT custom from Brian Tudor shaped for PR, great semi step up. Fourth is my 6'9 Cannibal custom from AJ specifically for large PR. That thing is a missle and can handle double over head +. Fifth is a 7'4 Quiet Flight bought and ridden on the North Shore in 1996. Sixth of course is my sons 6'0 surftech that he freakin shreds on.
Honestly since I got the Transformer II I haven't hadly used any of the others. It floats better since none of the others are EPS. It gets into waves easier with the width and volume forward. I took it to PR for Easter this year. It was 2-4 ft overhead when I got there and it handled it great! When the swell subsided I switched it to quad and hit wilderness for a few days. The thing is my magic carpet ride for sure. On a side note we stayed at Fisheye overlooking Marias and it was awesome. They have a pool where you can watch the surf and it keeps the family happy. You just walk down the hill and hit it brah. I took these from the pool deck and of course the only pics my wife got were from small Wildo.
Nice pics dude, i'll be there late October, can't wait! I'm staying in the Puntas area so I was thinking of hitting up Maria's, Domes, and Sandy Beach, but any recommendations for a 1st timer to PR with no reef experience would be appreciated. I've heard Domes and Maria's can be forgiving on a small - medium swell, but idk, Sandy's i've heard you gotta hit at sunrise and by 10 it's blown out... any truth to this?
Well there is a bit of truth to that but usually its better at Marias or domes. IF, and I say if the wind is calm, you might find good waves at sandys but its almost always better around the corner at Marias. PM me and I will give you the solid lowdown or even my phone number because I have been going there for 10 years and I can help you a lot. Everything from where to get in and out of the water and where its no big deal. Also what to do when it drops off in Rincon, which it will.
I have been wanting to take some quiver pics for a little while now, thanks to this thread for the motivation to drag everything out in the yard. Some nice ones so far! From top to bottom (& left to right): 1. 9' Stewart Colin McPhillips Performance Noserider 2. 5'5" Lost Round Nose Fish 3. 5'10" Lost FST Stealth 4. 5'10" Roberts Black Thumb 5. 148 Forum Street Dweller/Flux Bindings 6. 149 Technine Team Rasta/Union Contact Bindings 7. Super old Chuck Barfoot longboard cruiser 8. Carver Green Room 9. Super old Baker skateboard 10. Deckcrafters skateboard 11. Bowl/pool skateboard deck 12. Homemade handplane and some Churchill fins Not sure how all this fits in my small one bedroom apartment!
Westside Big Island quiver: from left to right and top to bottom: 7'0" World Core funboard (good for bigger waves with channels/long paddles out) 6'6" mike daniels coil step-up 6"2" epoxy Hague (go-to, works in most anything even as a twin in thigh high) 6'2" Pang modern fish (fast, fun, not a beak nose fan though) 6'0" Jesse Fernandez egg 6'0" Mike Jacobs small-wave shorty missing 9'0" HP surftech, 6'2" Hague epoxy 5 fin shortboard back in DE.
Haha funny thing is my wife is ok with my boards stashed all over the place. I give her the whole closet for her clothes and I guess I can have my boards.
Here's my modest quiver of boards I shaped in the last 2 years. (the pink one was shaped for my sister but she doesn't surf much so I've taken it out a few times this summer.) Left to Right: 6'3" single winged egg thing 6'9" girlie paddle machine (single) 6'3" Morning of the Earth Wayne, MP inspired tube seeker single fin 5'8" round tail turbo Lynch, MP wannabe 2+1 convertible (single, widowmaker, twin, thruster...) ...the 6'3" has been waiting for it's day for a while....
