Read any good surf related books?

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by Wander, Jul 28, 2006.

  1. Wander

    Wander Member

    Jul 28, 2006
    First- I really love this site. This is my primary source of forecast info for my surfing ventures- which are mostly near Wilmington, NC so far. I appreciate the quality and the technical /scientific nature of the info, but also how it is presented in such a user friendly way- so a Big Thanks!

    My post is sort of twofold..when I am not out trying to get better at surfing, I find myself looking for good surf related things to read. I read In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker and really enjoyed it. He has a new novel coming out (click here if you want to check it out or even pre-order). so I wanted to p*** that along, but also....
    ....what other books out there am I missing that anyone can recommend? Thanks!
  2. masccerplaya7

    masccerplaya7 Member

    May 25, 2006

    kelly slater's biography is great, and tells u how he got into surfing

  3. surfgonzo

    surfgonzo Guest

    Tapping the Source

    TTS is a great book with a lot of surfing in the plotline.

    Also, I 2nd the recommendation of In Search of Capt. of my favorite books ever.
  4. eskimo

    eskimo Active Member

    Sep 8, 2006
    surfgonzo is right, in search of captain zero ( allan weisbecker) is a book i highly reccomend, and pipe dreams by kelly slater
  5. OBlove

    OBlove Well-Known Member

    Aug 29, 2006
    Be carefull!

    One thing about surfing you can learn not to do is chase something that is not there. The books, the magazines, the videos can often lead surfers to something that is not there...happiness. After a lot of years of chasing crap swells, buying crap mags, competing in crap comps, I realzied I needed to spend a lot more of my time/energy on education and becoming a complete watermen. Try a book called "Rich Dad, Poor Dad!" Someday you will have a property in Nicaragua or a Yacht in Indo? I stopped chasing the pipe dreams and I surf better waves now!!! Kelly Played golf and wrote music, now he is winning with a smile!. Occy lost weight, did triathlons, competed in lifesvaing, got to know his family...won a world championship...smiling! Just a lil note...take it or leave it!:)
  6. Wander

    Wander Member

    Jul 28, 2006
    thanks for all ideas. I read most of Kem Nunn's stuff since the original post too. OBLove- your points are well taken and I totally agree. Its just that i am so stoked about surfing, I just was looking for things that gave me a broader view. I focus a lot on learning to be a better surfer - ride a used board, fix my own dings, and would have a hard time naming 10 pro surfers.

    Have fun, be safe and lets catch some waves...
  7. rcarter

    rcarter Well-Known Member

    Jul 26, 2009
    WOW! This make take the cake for bringing a thread back from the dead! But still those are some good reads listed above.
  8. sonfollowerssurf

    sonfollowerssurf Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2012
    The BIBLE John 6:19 When they had rowed about three or four miles, they saw Jesus approaching the boat, walking on the water; and they were frightened.
  9. rcarter

    rcarter Well-Known Member

    Jul 26, 2009
    Well sure but if he came crusin up on a wave jet they would be all like, sweet brah!!!!
  10. Wave Maven

    Wave Maven Well-Known Member

    Nov 20, 2012
    Kook by Peter Heller is great. The Wave by Susan Casey is also.
  11. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Stop the clown act, eh? We don't want your proselytizing taking over a surfing forum. The person wants to know about surfing reads. Are you that desperate that you need to hijack the thread, yet again??

    Admin! WTF. You hook people for minor stuff, what about this psycho naming himself after jeeeeeeezus h effing keerist hijacking every thread for his own use??
  12. Dalarast

    Dalarast Well-Known Member

    May 2, 2013
    I read ALOT and especially when work pulls me far from the Ocean I read more surf/travel books than I really should but here is what is currently on my kindle with surf inspired themes. Also pick up an overpriced subscription to the surfers journal for some great surf stories/articles related to surfing, board shaping, and just the general feeling out there when you can't be.
    Fierce Heart: The story of Makaha and the soul of Hawaiian surfing by Stuart Coleman
    Eddie Would Go: The story of eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing: also by Stuart Coleman
    Kook: What Surfing taught me about love, live, and catching the perfect wave by Peter Heller
    Saltwater Buddha: A surfers guide to find Zen on the Sea by Yogis, Jaimal
    Island Explorer: Surfing, Sailing, and Exploring beyond Sumatra and the Mentawai Islands: by Dan Scheffler
    The Kooks Guide to Surfing: by Jason Borte (funny read!)
    Californios: a surf noir collection: by Jeff McElroy (some good some bad short collection)
    Surfing's Greatest Misadventures by Paul Diamond (same.. some good some bad collection of surf stories)
    The Lost Coast by Drew Kampion (more bad than good surf stories)

    That should get you started... if you want more or more information on them let me know. Big fan of Stuart Coleman's books and after reading them I started making pineapple swipe using the old Hawaiian recipe and my wife said I started speaking pigeon again. HA!
  13. MBsurfed

    MBsurfed New Member

    Sep 3, 2013
    New Surf Book I authored: Eyes on the Surprise

    I traveled around looking to learn the hidden ways of the world. With true surf stories, and descriptions of wellness routines; this book communicates the knowledge I found.
    Book now available on amazon:
    If you read; please consider reviewing on amazon, or liking book page on facebook. Thank you.
    My blog:

    CBSCREWBY Well-Known Member

    Feb 21, 2012
    "Kook" is a good read. two more good books, "West of Jesus" and "Salt Water Buddha."
  15. World B Free

    World B Free Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2013
    Check out "Tales From An Endless Summer" by Bruce Novotny. Surf fiction taking place on LBI. Soul surfer confronts life and seeks deeper meanings through his surfing. Refreshing take on the notion of "stoke" or should I say "STOKE".
  16. mike228

    mike228 Active Member

    Sep 7, 2012
    A couple people mentioned "Salt Water Buddha." It's pretty good and is a quick read. "The Wave" by Susan Casey is phenomenal. "Crazy for the Storm" by Norman Ollestad is also a good one.
  17. Dalarast

    Dalarast Well-Known Member

    May 2, 2013
    From what I hear some studio bought the rights to this book to make it into a movie... let's hope they don't mess it up much.
  18. nynj

    nynj Well-Known Member

    Jul 27, 2012
    Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell... by Chas Smith

    Just started reading this and it's awesome. It's about the North Shore and all the dirty seedy sh* that goes down..
    I don' see how Chas will ever go back and not get killed. I'm only 5 chapters in and he's talking about Eddie Rothman and his thug tactics.
    He hates Mick Fanning too and says some pretty funny stuff about him.

    Chas seems like a douche, but pretty damn funny.
  19. beachbreak

    beachbreak Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2008
    bustin' down the door by rabbit Bartholomew is excellent,as is nat's nat and that's that by nat young, and mp-the life of Michael Peterson by sean doherty,and the way of the surfer by drew kampion, but the best book since it is Sunday I must say is The Holy Bible which is not really a book but is the Word of God.