As crazy as it sounds, I had a blast today. Waist high and clean with some juice Occ chest. I actually had more fun than yesterday which surprised me because I live for the big days. I had more fun today than in years even with the freezing water and air temps. I felt like a kid again. I know it sounds corny but today just clicked. Board, waves, tricks, surfing, etc. Anyone else ever experience this or am I just getting old, lol?
I like surfing a second session, or session the next day, after the swell drops... it's like the best of both worlds. You get the big thrills session first, then just the pure fun session. The thrills come with a price... ice cream headaches, poundings, hard paddles... and they're worth it. But the small fun sessions after are pain free, and you don't have to think too much or feel like you gotta make every wave. And... you get to ride a different board.
