Ever think mother earth puts you to the test? I had a sweet wave all lined up and as I try to pop up my wrist totally gives out. Not once but twice on the same wave. ( I spent 20 years digging ditches and jack hammering on a chain gang.) i fell flat on my face. In case I die later that day I need to be sure I go to the pearly gates with good memories. I paddle back out and I get sent a juicy wall, nice and steep with plenty to hit! Snaps off the top big bottom turns w a floater thrown in there and two cutbacks to get into the critical sections, even a little cover up as it grinds the sand. I step off on the beach. REDEMPTION! Now I can die!
I think she plays with us. I've had sessions where everything connects, then I've had sessions where I felt like I was just learning to surf.
In a perfect universe this would happen and we'd all end up Even Steven. Hey maybe that's god's name... Steven.
