Last week I was out in some small poor surf. I had spent about two hours and only got 2 waves....guess I just needed to be in the water. But something EPIC happened......I caught and rode a wave that didn't break. I could hardly believe it.....that's the first time I have ever done that. It was beautiful, I turned left, I turned right and I rode the nose all the way in Anyone else have that experience? Did it evoke a stoke in you? Or is that just an average day for a better surfer than myself?
Yes.....all face, no white water. And thanks for the wave porn! I'm gonna go rub wax on my board and think about it.
Loosen your jock strap......the poll is of a humorous nature. And I am talking about a wave that didn't break.....at all! It just rolled in, without rolling over.
I once surfed Waikiki on a big longboard and every single wave for the entire 2-3 hours was just a 2 foot rolling unbroken face...go left for a while...go right for a while...go straight for a while...look at Diamond Head for a while. It didnt particularly "evoke a stoke" in me. It did evoke an irritation that my wife had persuaded me to leave the North Shore where there had been actual good waves (of the breaking kind). The view of Diamond Head was nice but would have been better looking out of a barrel.
ummmm if you never rode a wave with an open face before did you just head straight to the beach on closeouts? Either way cruising a nice open face wave and feeling the glide is soooo fun!!!
It was small....very small....maybe 1.5 to 2 feet.....held up by off shore winds. I'm sure it broke once it made the last sandbar, but I caught it out far and it lost power and form just before the beach, in the tench....when I went for it, I thought it would break at some point, and just couldn't believe that it didn't AND I was riding it. I rode it both left and right.....practiced turning.....was completely beside myself and stoked. I had heard it was possible (longboarding) but didn't know I could do it. I hope that clears things up for everyone.
Yeah, pretty much a high tide wave but a cool experience. The biggest difference for me is the quietness of the wave and the ride. Rather than the water crashing you hear your board gliding through and over the water. Enjoy the glide whenever you get one of these.
haha hell yea. It was my very first turn i ever did on a board. It's burned into my memory forever. I remember the wind, the water temp, the time of day, the way the sun was just behind a house on the beach, the face of the guy hooting me into the wave, the tourists who actually clapped for me on the beach haha. It seriously felt like i rode the wave forever but in reality it was probably about 10 seconds (a rare treat in VB). Second greatest moment surfing for me so far. First was my first actually barrel. I will never forget those days.
Dude, awesome! Good to know you know exactly what I mean. I'm still trying for my first barrel. BTW, ClemsonSurf.....now that I think about it, you are right, thanks for pointing it out.....but I didn't notice the quietness at the time, I was to busy screaming in my head "No WAY, O' my gawd! Is this really happening? Now go right! OMG I just went right."......so on and so fourth.
