without this man surfing would cease to exist in the northeast.he made it possible to go in the ocean when the water is chilly,and that's pretty remarkable.he lived a long life which is cool,93 is quite the age to go out.rest in peace
He lost his eye because there was no properre leash tying etiquette back then. He attached a primitive bungee cord to the nose of his boart. Soon after, leashes were attached to the back fin, or fin box, or somewhere back there.
Dont forget that the first goon cords were made of rubber hose instead of urethane. Most of the time your board would either zing back at you at warp speed, or tombstone for days while you were in the impact zone
