Rode a LB for the first time last weekend

Good job emass ! You did it in reverse though . When you started surfing a year ago you should have got a log instead of an al merrick custom with a 5 fin set up and a multicolored stomp pad

 

That little push you feel when you're following through your duckdive, that you pull your board up against, is key to smooth resurfacing on a SB. But it's really a lot different on a LB. You're kinda just driving the board down as far as you can, and timing it right, and just letting the wave roll over you. Try approaching the oncoming wave at a slight angle, say 1 or 2 o'clock, and driving your nose down with the rail in your left hand going down first. So you're sort of scooping your nose under from 2 o'clock to 12 o'clock, then using your foot to get the whole board under. Driving the board down rail first lets you get it down faster and deeper than trying to push it under flat... and forget the little pull with your arms.

 

good to hear spicoli.logging is all about fun,everybody needs one in their arsenal,even the spongers

 

Awesome emass glad to hear! The LB is a blast, had a session today on mine. Love that pendulum feeling you get between turns. I also agree with ditching the turtle roll. I tend to just paddle hard, get up to the nose to push it under and dive/ push up over it, depending on size. One thing Iv noticed is that the LB really helps with my timing and reading a wave. Not really sure why. Good luck with it, in sure it will serve you well

 

I am sorry to hear that. It is like "coming out of the closet". It does mean you are turning into a queer.
Please don't post anymore......<grin>

 

o barry

 

That about covers it, sorry, just got sroumd to responding.

 

So I have to admit that riding a LB in the right conditions is a ton of fun. A guy I surfed with years ago taught me a trick when we were surfing Tres Palms on LBs (which actually ended up being an epic session).

As the wave is approaching shift weight to the front/middle and right when the wave is to you, keep one arm straight an the other totally bent....all in one motion. It is much easier to get the board beneath the surface versus trying to do a traditional push up with both arms. The board goes under kind of sideways on the rail if that makes sense.

BTW, the more....different boards you ride along the way will give you a more rounded skill set for surfing any conditions. For instance, #3s on the South Shore...I have surfed out there a number of times on a 9'6" and a 6'4". It can be perfect for both boards but the type of crowd in the line-up and on smaller days I would have much more fun on the LB. Conversely, I would never paddle out at the Lighthouse on an overhead day with sucking pits on a LB. To each their own I guess...my point is on the east coast, I own 4 SBs, an 8' FB, and a 9'6" tanker and ride all of them through out the year but I always yearn for some juice on the SB.

Have fun

 

I guess I should have read the whole thread....LBcrew knows the rules. this sounds like the same thing I'm talking about.

 

Looks like the "LB" crew has excepted you with open arms . You must have watched " surfer dude" the movie last week to make this rash and very quick decision .so stop trying to be the kid from north shore (movie) and now you can start a whole new life as mathew mc? And start being a style master . Les not forget to learn to cross step while throwing your hands in the air and don't forget to grab some striped shorts big boy. And never ever point your LB with nose @ the front of your motor car.

 

And please don't put a stomp pad on the LB please..

 

i watched a LB last year at my break ride a good ride he did a spin in a 360(not the board just himself in a cricle) while walking toward the middle of the board,looked like he was dancing

 

motour car

 

Congrats! I picked up a 7'6", not sure if that is really considered a long board, but it is to me. HA It is really fun on those small days.

 

i sold the 9ft and bought a 7 10" epoxy funboard only seems like a foot difference but for some reason am a lot more comfortable handling 8ft and under than the extra foot

 

Frost, here is a little bump with my longboard. LOL

 

you look really really close to shore in that pic....

 

The waves break a little closer to shore her in DE, but I wasn't too close

 

Looks like some "epic" beach break surf u got there fella .