Roy Stewart is a Zen master...

ha. a swellinfo meet and greet. that would be great.

 

I think Zen does apply in the surfing realm. There's probably a better explanation, but I call them, "Zen moments"... when you slip into that moment of pure unthinkingness. I notice it after I get a wave, when I'm paddling back out, and can't remember the wave I just had. I think of it as a sort of oneness with the energy of the universe, when you're in perfect sync with the world around you and everything becomes one. Conscious thought stops, and you're on total auto-pilot. I live for those Zen Moments.

 

Without a doubt...I've seen it referred to as "flow state", not sure if that's official psychological jargon, but it happens for sure IMO.

 

The first annual Swellinfo surf/bench/drink off should be held at 7th street beach in OCNJ on a Saturday in July.

 

Good post, I think what happens in those moments is endorphins are getting released into blood stream and into your brain, causing an "Endorphin Rush"

 

When one can't remember the ride it's due to the region of the brain which is being used.

 

This is a surf forum, not the Thrasher Magazine's forum - we meet at the beach. Or a bar.

 

Or a beach bar?

 

Feel free to use this thread for all your discussions, off topic or otherwise... it's not a bad title all told.

 

whatever floats your board man. I enjoy em both equally and since ur from cb hampstead is a good inbetween.

As far as zen goes,

after spanking the monkey for a few hours i sometimes enter into a trance like state of "oneness" with my wasted potential children.

 

I'm there, where ever that may be.

 

someone make the forum meet and greet thread

 

Whatever floats your board...I see what you did there....very clever. I don't skate the small boards, but I'm always down to break out the 54" Gravity booze cruiser. I don't really leave CB unless it's for work, so drop me a line if you're ever in WilmyWood. I'm always down to shred some nectar.

 

http://www.surfermag.com/features/the-science-of-stoke/
interesting read.

 

Bout to head out in the chop. I need salt water, so it will feel good in the end. That is what it's all about.

 

Great read, thanks for sharing. I can certainly relate with this part as someone who deals with some anxiety...

"The paper hypothesized that surfing might affect mental and emotional states like anxiety and depression in the surfing population, and that surfers might exhibit fewer symptoms of those mental states. It also took steps to explain why these hypotheses might be true."

From my personaly experience, It certainly helps, if even only for a little while...

 

"Pure surfing, a Zen thing. The only goal is to make waves...." - Roy Stuart The observant might want to remember what they said during the interview.

 

perhaps roy spends too much time amongst the sheep and the wool has been pulled over his observant eyes.

 

Well spotted I stand corrected.



I find zen a hard concept to pin down and am surprised to see that I used it but there it is... can I blame the telephone?