Safely Taking a Beating

It's been quite a while since I have been in anything really big. My 2 cents - If you don't think you are ready for it, don't go out. OR, if you are not ready mentally and physically, don't go out! Be picky. Watch what the waves are doing for a bit and try not to put yourself in a bad situation. If you do get caught up and IT WILL happen, just try to stay calm and pray you tied your leash on properly!

 

yeah, when you only surf waves like that once in a while, it's harder. For me, I knew my physical shape was good, it was getting my mind right. After you get a couple under your belt, you will def feel more comfortable. Also, if possible, paddle out with a buddy! Just knowing someone else is with you helps

 

First of all, toss that sheet out right now! Don't let your pride get ya focked up!

 

LOL There is a difference between pushing yourself and getting yourself into something you can't handle

 

you mean like.... a safeword?

btw read what happened to ya last year - crazy dude. Barry's homeland shan't be trifled with. peso'ed and dimed with. props to ya tho.

 

Basically everything Zero has said, and:

- Pace yourself on the initial paddle out. I know you're excited, but it's not a race. Take slow efficient strokes, you'll need a burst of energy to punch through the last 30 feet or so don't blow your whole load in the first 30 ft.

- Don't go on the first wave of the set. This is a good rule of thumb, and it really does work on huge days. The earlier in a set you go, the more waves you'll take on the head in the inside.

- If a huge cleanup set is looming on the outside, stop padding toward it. Stopping will mean you get to take a rally good breath before it gets to you, and it will dissipate a little as it gets to you. Nothing worse than getting a short breath and having the lip come directly on top of you.

Just a few nuggets off the top of my head.

 

Anytime you paddle out in anything, wether it be knee high, to double OH your mind needs to be totally focused and aware of what you are doing. Knowing the consequences that may arise in an instant and freeing your mind to be able to react in a calm manner without panic. Everyone here I'm sure can quote Brodi. Hesitation in any sense can cause fear and fear can cause your worst nightmare, or something like that. So true.
Commitment, conditioning, courage. Call them the 3c's of surfing. We all get worked over from time to time but focus and relax. This is supposed to be fun, not a proving ground for the faint of heart. If it's bigger and bigger waves that call you, then most definitely condition yourself. No fear and balls to the wall!

 

yeah no kidding, I remember when I got pummeled my first time... it was late October... and the seas were boiling. like..AT LEAST triple waist high...hold on, let me get a little high...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ok ...that's good stuff btw, holy crap..
so anyway, got caught in a rip, taking a close out after a close out on the old dome... thinking well sh1t... I should've sand reconned.... the only thing keeping me afloat was my 3/2 and fins... but even then I couldn't get away from the beating. thankfull sets NEVER come in multiples of more than like.. 3 waves... EVER... so I was able to grab a moment and start thinking... I stood up for a sec, peed, then dipped down to neck level and finally made out what the community pool lifeguard was screaming - rudely telling me to swim SIDESHORE, not TOWARDS shore... and there I was! safe and sound! and proud too! dinged my funboard up pretty bad that day though...

 

idk dude, I like to the take the second or third, if its breaking a little ways out. a lotta times on a good set the first smoothes out the ramp pretty good, then the second carries the punch through. if you're taking off near a jetty it can make a difference, relieving some of the corner turbulence. plus you get half the line up going for that first one out of the way.

 

commitment, coral, and coooooooont (which underwater sounds like BLBLBLLbllblblbLBlLBLB!!!!!!!) heheh ok ok I'm done