Safely Taking a Beating

doh if its mushy im like hell yeah, if its closeouts which i feel like most the time thats what it is in florida minus the exceptions, reef, monster, ect. i just dont dig doh closeouts, but im at the point i just want to charge it but then i dont want to paddle back out though the inside, cause when its mackin its far out, some people are like your crazy what if you get bit by a shark, good point though on dudes part you get a bite on the outside you could bleed out. yall know what im talking about in cen florida.

 

Surf with people better then you and will call you names if you don't charge.

 

Yea, peer pressure is the great equalizer!

 

yeah the first wave is always the best then you have to paddle back though death.

 

All you can do is trust your instincts, know your limits and listen to that voice in your head. Before you paddle out.
And by all means, get that gopro out of your mouth.

 

Whatever you do - don't try to hold on to the board by the legge rope. Almost got my fingers yanked out once. Dumb move for sure. Panicked, wasn't thinking

 

I have had this feeling many a time....the good push a few weeks ago I paddled out at Juno Pier and by the time I got out the back, I turned around to see I was a good 200ft past the end of the pier, maybe 200yds from shore. A little unnerving when it's big and sharky.

 

Hey guys,
Been lurking here for a while but thought I'd post on this thread since I think it's an interesting topic.

I lived in Hawaii twice for a total of about 7 years, and spent a great deal of time on the North Shore. I never found any magic technique that made me comfortable in big waves- I was always a bit nervous when it was big. However, there are a few things that helped.

First, a lot of it is mental. For me, the best way I found to keep myself calm on a big day was to know that I had been serious about my training, and had myself in very good shape. Good cardio. If I knew that I'd been properly conditioning myself I found I had self-confidence. And, being in shape is important in big surf to begin with.

Second, riding a board that I had confidence in, and was big enough for the conditions, made a difference. Especially when it's breaking far out, or there are heavy currents, having a good, thick board that paddles well is key.

Third, if you see a set coming in and you think you can get outside, go for it. But if you're going to take it on the head, or if you already took one on the head and you're caught for the set, I agree to stop paddling. Let the whitewater push you in out of the impact zone, and safe your energy. There is nothing worse than seeing a set feathering and knowing you're caught, but if you're caught, get yourself a few good, deep breaths, calm your breathing down, and just try to enjoy the experience.

Finally, if you're seriously uncomfortable, bag it. I've been out a couple of times where I was so scared I was shaking as I was paddling out, and I felt like I was going to barf. I usually felt much better once I took a wave on the head and realized I wasn't going to die. But there were a few times when I looked out and just knew it was too much- too hungover, too much water moving, whatever. Part of being a good surfer is having judgement to keep yourself out of trouble in the first place.

Whelp, long first post but I hope that helps.

 

Make sure your leg rope is tied properlee...?

In all seriousness, inflation vests are the best advancements in surfing if your riding mountains and peace of mind. The rest is luck. My biggest fear is getting smashed by my own board.

 

Puerto Escondido is a beachbreak--sand bars.
Very dangerous; worse than reef breaks in Pacific or Atlantic, IMHO.
I would love to surf there, but on a reasonable swell--no bigger than 10-12 foot faces.

 

You surf?

 

Iv never been in true DOH surf. Been out in some big stuff though. And more importantly Iv had some sketchy situations on both big and small days. Took a LB to the noggin in only about 4 foot stuff. Cracked my head open. Tail of the board got smash in from my head. Iv had two pretty sketchy hold downs to in OH surf. In both instances it wasn't exactly a terribly long hold down. It was more of what happened before the hold down that made it sketchy.

One of these instances, I was out in OH surf on the LB. Paddle into one but got held up in the lip. Thought for sure I was getting tossed but I was able to get the nose down just enough. Air dropped to the bottom. Now I wasn't expecting to make it to the bottom. So as I dropped and my body compressed I let out a huge exhale. Then the lip just came down on me. I got held under without being able to get a breath in. Not a long hold down but any hold down is bad when you don't get that breath in.

I remember going through the spin cycle and thinking to myself. Damn this will be tough. No worries though just relax. Be calm. Be calm. Be calm. I came up pretty damn dizzy. Couldn't see straight for a min.

Although I hadn't been in huge surf, I think staying calm is important no matter the size. You have to relax. What's going to happen can't be stopped, so don't try. Just relax. As far as survival instincts, I think that's something some one has or dosn't. When I got hit in the head with the LB I just knew the **** had hit the fan. Got to shore as quickly as possible but don't really remember how. Just knew it had to be done and did it.

I know this thread is about big stuff but I figured I'd give my two cents anyway. Anything can happen at anytime, any size, got to be prepared

 

^ I moved from Hawaii last May, but when I was there my go-to North Shore spots were Hultins and Pupukea/Gas Chambers. I hate to admit this, but I didn't realize how awesome Off the Wall was until right before I left. I got a dozen sessions in there, but man I wish I had tried that side of Pipe a lot sooner.

@ DawnpatrolSUP- I just saw your other post where you talked about your dislocated shoulder and long swim in. I'm not sure anything can prepare you for something like that.

 

I've been out in DOH east coast surf a couple times so far and man, I wish it would happen more often. Going out at the light house when it's 10-12ft and just Fvcking spitting it's guts out is the greatest feeling in the damn world. Most of the time you wont make it out of them but when you do... Damn I wanna surf a big day here again soon

 

Be fit.
Don't panic.
To get some you gotta take some.
And lastly, surfers don't drown. Tourists and Japanese fisherman, they drown.

 

You get halfway through disagreeing with me then you repeat what i said. Lol ok bud, go ahead, paddle sataight into the impact zone with a big set bareing down. Go change your name again while the grownups talk about surfing.

 

Even if you look at that video that was posted he was under no longer then 12 seconds. No big deal. Not saying I could ever surf that but the beatings aren't as life threatening as they may seem in our mind.

 

Stanky-

Yes....



Go on that first...don't wait for the 3rd

But seriously, go get some mushy beach break, I surf that stuff to as big as it gets around here...water = no prob, and even if you get some long period big stuff and find yourself getting ragdolled in feb, rellllax, don't do it!

However, the bars around here - I only mess with that stuff up to head high or slightly overhead-just not comfortable dripping in on that stuff, and don't wanna crack my neck piece OR especially someone else's

And points? Ha! Too old, not nearly up to par, gots kids n shyyte

Definition of kook? Showing up at a party that's waaaayyy outside your pay grade and puttin in a front

So?

Pick your spots, know the spot, and be prepared - might have to wing it once in a while, but for the sake of odds, try to limit those times and work up to it so the odds are (almost) always in your favor