Safely Taking a Beating

I hold my breath for over a minute on land but when I'm surfing a 7 second hold down feels like I'm on the verge of passing out? Hate it.

 

The Almighty Bodhi sums it up best:

"Fear causes hesitation
And hesitation will force
Your worst fears
To come true."

True that. SO, After I've successfully snapped 2 different boards in OH waves, and then survived the beatdowns while I've paddled in on half boards while taking big whitewater to the head, I've grown to know how to relax in those situations. Relax bro...

But the fear thing is right up there with conditioning and equipment. For sure.

Also gotta remember the old saying, "Get right back on the horse" so you don't loose your nerve. Well, since I busted my board in 2 a couple weeks ago, I'm building my nerve back up. Get the body right, the mind will follow. Or get the mind right, and the body will follow. And a new board always helps!

 

I can honestly say I can't ever remember fighting the fear on a drop or tube attempt. For some strange reason I just don't fear the wipeout. What horrifies me, however, are paddle outs. I guess I feel like I'm in control paddling into a wave... but a complete lack of control when it comes to getting caught inside... completely at the mercy of the elements. I'm definitely fighting the fear in those circumstances.

 

I can't believe no one has mentioned trying to punch through the surface of the water if you're falling yet. Maybe because it's so obvious? In big waves that can be the difference between a 2 second and 10+ second hold down, and being 200 feet closer to safety or further into the impact zone.

If you're falling or the wave is closing out and it's DOH+ you better find a way to get underwater in a hurry.

 

^+1 Getting caught inside when it's thumpin' is the worst part to me especially as I am not in the same shape I used to be.

 

You all sound like a bunch of East Coast pussies; wimps.
"Oh, I fear this"...or "Oh, I fear that"
You all have leashes, assholes.
You all wear wetsuits, they float you, assholes.

No wonder the muslims are sticking it up your assholes--you are all wimps!!

hahahahahahaha!!!

 

Didn't we legit BUY pr last year? We own your breaks now, we own your reefs, we owns your womens and yer very souls (doesn't affect Barry, parts may be missing)

 

Actually Towelle, PR owns you.....they are ALL on Welfare (La Ayudita), which YOU are paying for (they dont pay Federal taxes). Very few of them actually work. Oh, they may be employed, but they don't work. Why? Americans are paying for their beach time.
Get your facts straight on who owns whom....

 

None of you hit PR when it is actually large.
You would all soil yourselves paddling out at Marias or Tres Palmas when large.

 

ay puta madre, you're right!

 

it is, but they're so lazy - it takes 4 puerto ricans to charge one wave.. so it's not so bad mang

in fact... "charging all day" takes on a completely new meaning in PR

6...8 hour sessions start to make sense.... it's all paid for brah ...

 

Large enough for me.
When I was young, however, we hit Tres Palmas when it was 20-22ft faces.....no leashes, on longboards.
We didn't whine. We just surfed.
That was in the 1960's, before the gringo pieces of shiit that are there now even were born....

 

Yup. And I am paying for it as well. But at least I get SS now, so it is PAY BACK time!!!