Safely Taking a Beating

Eat your heart out!! It is true.
But I care not if it is believed. Leashes were not yet invented, and all we had were longboards, no guns....
Long swims after a wipe out!!!

 

aint that America!

 

Sweet Land of Liberty....

 

hold on...#420

 

Barry, show me ONE photo of you surfing anything over head high. ONE

 

If you did not care, you would not have trolled (NPD)

 

Never had the opportunity to surf Tres at 20'+. But I've gotten it a few times at 15'.

Just because you have fear, doesn't mean your a wimp. The fear is half the adrenaline rush. The other half is making it!

 

Good thread DP...just catching up on it.

LB, 15' tres is definitely an adrenaline rush. Especially if the offshores are blowing relatively hard....getting over the ledge and down the face is a rush out there. I have never surfed there at 20' faces

 

Barry still rocks the "No Fear" Gear

 

lol....he has a "fear this" sticker on his computer monitor.

 

right in the middle

 

Stop torching your lungs and you'll feel more comfortable in big surf. You need all your lung capacity and more to take the possible wipeout after a sprint paddle, and you feel winded, but you just gotta take that next wave.
'Cause if you don't someone else will.
That and paddle power....arms that won't quit. Both will give you plenty of confidence. The rest is mental.

 

Yea, same here. I hate the paddle out beat down when you're already winded, especially when you are almost outside, wheezing, and a big ass set walls up and implodes right in front of you. That sucks the worst.

 

Thought I'd add this. But again I surf the east coast, no DOH days here. But I surf it as big as it gets. I feel the takeoff is key. For me personally, if I go down its on the takeoff. Once up and riding its rare I get a heavy fall/hold down. Of course there are exceptions, like when a wave closes on you. But MOST of the time, if you have a good takeoff, your good. And if your not at least your in better position to avoid danger. When it's small I'll go for a wave that I'm not 100% sure I'll make, just because I want it and it's small. When it's big or sketchy, I'll pull out if something dosn't feel right. You know when your paddling for it if things feel right or not. Some may day that's not going for it out being scared. I call it being smart

 

100% ^