Good idea with the jig for the leash cup mitchell! Didn't plan on using on but solid point about it walking. I'll definitely do that. I was actually worried about melting foam from hot resin during leash and fin install. Obviously i don't have experience but the resin i choose apparently is great because it didn't get as hot as the "fast hardener" making it. Downside is it has really quick cure times which for a beginner could be tough. Regardless, I'll make sure to read through your guys suggestions before hand to take every precaution to not melt down. And HH, i literally have an identical story. I never really understood what they meant with a "hot" batch. Well one day during a ding repair i found out. That thing was smoking and damn near burned my hand. Didn't know reason could get that hot hahaha
Here's another random question for you experienced guys. I got some red pigment with my order. For obvious reasons. Red=speed. Would like to try a cut lap. Questions im about to ask i will not be trying on my first go. Just want to wrap my head around it. So if i do a cut lap the bottom/rails/outter perimeter of deck would be red. Then id glass the deck with no pigment so it'd be clear. Got that If i wanted the whole board red id mix a master batch (so top and bottom color match) of resin and pigment and could do a free lap. Got that. Well what about if i wanted the bottom opaque red like if i were doing a cut lap, but wanted the deck just tinted red or a whole other color or whatever instead of clear? Would the deck need to be painted pre glassing then just do a cut lap like normal to let the deck color show through the clear glass? Again, not trying this. Just was pondering and was trying to figure out how one would go about it.
First... You'd have to do a cutlap on both sides if you want the whole board red. If not, you would see the freelap and it would not look good. If you want the deck another color you do panel. Tape along the cutlapped rail and mask off the rest of the rail. Tint your deck and cutlap it so you have two cutlaps butted up against eachother. Clear top layer over that after it's cured and cleaned up. I've done a ton of these... I do a solid bottom/rails and do an acid swirl on the deck panel with some of the bottom color swirled in. Looks killer. A word of warning... Red is hard to get right. 9 out of 10 first trys it comes out pink.
Just caught up on the thread...good luck Bass! Sounds like you are taking the right approach to this endeavor! I doubt I will ever try to shape one myself. But, I am enjoying hearing you and others articulate the process. I’ve learned a lot already...
LB- So if I'm understanding correctly you'd be glassing the deck 1 layer of cloth at a time? First one cutlap butted up against the bottom cutlap, with color. Second layer clear. Does that second layer get cutlapped similar to the first layer? Butted up against the bottom cutlap? As far as it being pink, i thought about that after the fact. Oh well. Guess we will see how it goes. But lesson already learned. Color isn't really important at this point anyway, learning is. JayD- Thanks for the support! Always was intrigued with design. Love working with a shaper and ironing out fine details. Trying to take in as much information as possible so i can eventually do that stuff solo with out the price and wait of a local shaper.
I've done a red epoxy tint exactly once. Anyway the board came out awesome and was stoked on it. Then one day I left it in the sun red side up for about half an hour. The color went from ruby red to a splotchy putrid orange. Not sure what to blame it on but figured I'd pass it along.
Yes... you're glassing the deck panel (or "inlay") by itself as a first step. Subsequent clear layers can be glassed together. If you're only doing one layer over the top of the inlay, you free lap it around the rail. If you're doing two layers over the inlay, you cut the middle layer at the rail apex, and lap the top layer around the rail. Obviously, a single layer over the inlay leaves the rail with only two layers of glass on the deck side of the rail instead of three... not as strong. Two layers over the inlay will add weight, but also strength and stiffness/snap resistance. I will generally do the inlay in 4oz. I like the way it looks better because less weave shows. 6oz tends to show more weave. So I'll sometimes do a 4oz inlay and a 6oz lam layer over that, fully wrapping the rails.
LOL... don't you just love those little surprises!? My guess is that you got a bad batch of resin... which happens. Sometimes they forget to put in the UV stabilizer. I did a blood red gun with a three-color deck inlay swirl and black resin pinline that was the most beautiful board I've ever made. I've concluded that if done right, red provides some amazing results. If done wrong... disaster!
Bassmon I'm stoked for you dude, take some pics and post along the way documenting your journey, it will be cool to see.
I think the board turned from pink to orange in order to protect you. It did not want people thinking you are a gay surfer....
Thanks again LB. You've been a wealth of info. Can't thank you enough. My order has shipped. Estimated arrival is tomorrow. On call this weekend so not sure if I'll get the template done or not. But all my down time next week and into the weekend will be dedicated to getting the blank shaped. Not going to rush it but not going to procrastinate either. Don't worry DP, I'll keep you guys up to date for sure. Will be taking plenty of pictures. Honest feedback and opinions will only help my progress
For an 8’4” by 22.5” by 3” bort, it screams. Really fun if you have some swell and still a blast with knee high/thigh high too. Paddles really easy.
