Leave the foil thick in the nose and cut your rail bands, fading them to nothing ahead of the nose. Before you blend your rail bevels, flatten the tip of the nose on the deck sidee with a surform, then hard block with 80 grit. Then blend your rail bevels into your nose by pulling the rail bevels forward to the tip.
Like and appreciate all the ideas. All good info that will come in handy one day. This is where I'm at now.... As far as cutting the stinger out and sanding and regluing.... possibly. Havnt ruled it out. Just not my favorite idea. Them sending me a new stringer. Up in the air, not going to say why just yet. Hopefully by later today I'll be able to comment on that. Going to a 5'7 or 5'8. I do like this idea. As that is more my size than a 5'10. Really will come down to measurements. On one hand i think learning to fade the rocker will be difficult, but at the same time a good learning experience. Going to look at it again tonight and try remembering the measurements this time. My thought is if the natural rocker is 3.5, i'll take this route. As im looking for a 3.5-4 in nose rocker. "Replacing" the missing foam with a piece that'll be shaped away..... good to know it's doable. But not somthing i really want to try at the moment.
LOL Not at all dude. I'm not building a boart at the moment but I'm following along with what you guys are talking about. I did replace a traction pad and leash knot last night along with a rewax of my 6'4" Flashback Fish. Not relevant really, just thought i'd share.
Ok. So i got home from work and was eyeing up the blank. If i were to cut the damaged area straight off the natural rocker is 3in. Meaning id want to add half an inch. I think i can do it. Will make my job harder for sure. Im thinking I'll take a ton of measurements on one of my boards with the same rocker im looking for. Mark it. And go from there. I realize it's not the easiest option, but that's sort of why I'm leaning this way. I said from the beginning, i like the idea of keeping the learning curve steep. Of course i could very well change my mind between now and when i start. Tomorrow's grandma's funeral and i took Friday off too. Starting Friday. Stay tuned.
You can definately do it. Adding 1/2 inch of nose rocker is a whole lot easier than trying to decrease rocker. Do this step BEFORE you thin out your blank. start your planer maybe 18 inches back from the nose, gate closed (no cut) and work towards the nose gradually opening the gate and it should be fully open cutting 1/8 or whatever)" by the time you reach the nose. Make perhaps 3 -4 passes like this and you should have added a blended 1/2" of nose rocker. The bottom will be wavy from the planer action, but the next steps will smooth all that out. just out of curiousity, how much tail rocker is there? IMO if the board has a decent amount of tail rocker (for a 5' 7" small wave board I would consider anything in the 1.5" - 2.0" range ample...some would say more than ample...i have made several mini simmons that have less than 1.5" tail rocker and less than 3.5" nose rocker and they are all good riders) then the flattish nose rocker will be less of a factor surfing.
So the tail has 2" of rocker. I mentioned how im using my 5'8 custom as a sort of guide which was based off my 6'3 single. Well the 6'3 isn't at my house (to many boards and i don't ride it much anymore). Well before i plan on doing anything i ws going to measure the 6'3 rocker. If it is less than 3.5" i might do less rocker on this board. Both those boards paddle great and get in early, which is what im looking for on this shape.
That's how it's done. But measure and mark your rocker at the tip of the nose before you make your first pass. Keep in mind you'll have to "roll" the planer as you make your pass to keep the blade in contact with the bottom of the board. You want your front shoe of the planer pretty much flat, and the rear shoe literally off the blank at the back of the tool. The front shoe and blade rides the curve.
Knowing you i feel like I'm stepping into a joke here haha. No offense barry. Take a stiff straight edge. Something that won't bend, and the length of the board. Lay it along the boards stringer (bottom up) and make sure it's level. Measure nose to straight edge. Tail to straight edge. Those are your rocker measurements.
This is debated a lot, but the standard method is to lay the board on a shaping rack, and balance/level a long straight edge on the rocker apex to get a tangent. Then measure at various points along the stick, specifically nose, tail and a foot in from each. If I'm really trying to dial in a rocker, I'll measure points at half the distance between nose/tail and rocker apex, than half that distance, then half that distance, etc... all the way out to the tip of the nose and tail.
LOL...I can see how you would think that. But it is a serious question. I was thinking using a long level, but how long can one acquire such a level?? Six feet?/ Never seen a longer one. Mine is 3ft. Anyway, thanks to both you and LBCrew for the responses.
I use a flat 8' piece of furring strip as a level. The strip of wood should be held tangent to the stringer at the midpoint of the bottom (equidistant to nose and tail.) I also measure my nose rocker on the bottom about 1/2" back from the nose of the board because i think you can overestimate real functional nose rocker by (as this picture illustrates) measuring right at the tip of the board which is more like an extension of the deck than the bottom. Depending on how you define that front inch of the board, nose rocker can easily vary by 3/4"
Great sketch, Mitch. If you look at that picture, and imagine it's 6' board, I'd make measurements at 18" in from each end, then 9" in from each end, then 4.5" in from each end, then 2.25" in, etc. This lets your intervals get smaller and more accurate as the rocker accelerates... to avoid the misinterpretation of the numbers that Mitchell is talking about. I use the same system when copying a planshape... the measured points get closer as the curve accelerates. This allows you to replicate a shape... or a rocker... with exact precision.
Alright boys. Got started this morning. Not going to be mowing all the foam down today. Had to pick up some last minute things this morning, then started working on my full size template as opposed to just doing small scale sketches. Have no pictures of the template as i ran into some issues. For one, turns out my jig saw took a dump. So i cut it by hand with a saw. What a pain. Trying to match the curves was tough. Which meant i had alot of work to clean up the template. That basically took up all of my morning. Then i traced the template on the board. Minor hiccup here as well. Note to self. Secure the template. I goofed a few lines. Nothing major and it's somthing I'll be able to clean up. Also the 8B pencil. So instead of drawing a thin line, i sort of shaded the outline. At least in some spots. My thought was it would give me a thicker line to follow and the inside of that line would be the true outline. Anyway. This is what i got..... Then i cut the outline. Quickly realized the trick to cutting straight up and down and being able to follow the outline close. Some spots i followed close than others. But here is the rough cut.... I need to clean it up and true up the edges. Also need to get everything symmetrical as i goofed a bit on that outline. Took a mini break though. Greenlight had forgot two items with my order, one being the rail runner. I want to use that to true it all up. Supposed to be coming in the mail today so i ran home to wait for the mail man. Then i'l be heading back. I hope to clean up the outline and get that whole rocker situation finished today. Tomorrow I'll do the foiling, bottom contours, and rails. Hopefully. Not going to rush it so we will see how things go. Ps- i made the executive decision to use my old room from when i was a teenager as my shaping bay. So excuse the bookshelf filled with crap, my washboard, and sombrero
LB, Barry.... thanks guys. Means alot. Mailman came a bit late. But i got my rail runner and squared things up. Measured everything up to make sure it was all symmetrical. And now it is. Lights in that room are weird. Shadows started playing tricks on my eyes. So i called it for the day. Back at em tomorrow. Worked on the rocker, got it to about 3 5/16". Almost there. Anyway here's where I'm at after cleaning it up....
