Funny thing in your post. You start talking about being with girls in the line up, but then, when the shark shows up, you only talk about not leaving a man behind.....are you gay??
it all depends on the situation.but I can name 3 stories off the top of my head not even thinking, about pros abandoning others,its really survival and every man for themselves.its not even abandoning its just u cant get to them in time because theres a 40ft swell. sharks are a bit different I guess than victory at sea conditions lol.if I was in the lineup and its crowded and a shark comes in just going to sit there and mind my own business.im sure there will be 10 other people kicking and splashing that will get the sharks attention.il just wait til a wave comes and ride it in.the 9 other guys can be the heros,not me.. theres probably less than 1% of the surfing population who would actually swim up to a shark attack.u know,saving a little kid from a rip or preventing a drowning is one thing but trying to go fight an apex predator,in liquid lol.thats like stumbling into mike Tysons house piss drunk trying to beat him up,it just aint gonna happen
If you can day trip to the beach after work that's close don't you think. I lived 3 hours from the beach for the first 23 years of my life I couldn't move until I got off parole. So I get it I would do day trips 30 times a year and travel to Hawaii every year minus a few. So I don't care about your struggle I'm plotting my next score. The older I get the less fuchs I give about dieing out there. I remember at 15 looking at maxing pipeline holding my bodyboard and fins thinking I don't want to die out there Now I'm standing at pipeline holding my surfboard thinking I don't want to break my back. And no I don't surf big pipeline ever and maybe never. I've been looking at that wave for 10 years.
Its been my experience that the more people talk about how often and cool they are for surfing the less likely they are to actually surf...Basically i don't believe a word you say. Theres 2 types of surfers, those that do and those that do not.
Yeah your right I'm lying, I do surfer maxing pipeline. I'm basically admitting that I'm scared to surf big waves and I'm not ashamed to admit it. But I do push myself on big waves and technical surfing. Just not made for it or I could have a change of heart and start charging. I just don't feel comfortable in big reef surf once it gets TOH I'm scared. Some spots I'm scared at DOH. Some spots I'm scared because its sharky and murky water. If you go to Kauai you might share my fear of offshore reefs 20 min plus paddle outs. Just getting swept to sea in open ocean currents.
Just because you don't have your priorities straight enough to spend 2500 to surf the Northshore that's not my fault. Maybe more if you start breaking boards.
o Barry, he's not in Iowa. He's in Australia. He said so himself. See, he even uses terms like "mate". That proves it. Probably says crikey too.
Haha you just got done bragging that you pay '2500$' to come out and be 'stuck' in the middle of the pacific each year just to surf. Sounds like you are the one stuck buddy. Fyi sitting on the shoulder and catching one after someone kicked out doesn't count. Its also not DOH at that point either. Nobody buys your act. And not to many come out here and catch bombs on vacation. So get a better story.
And to throw in, most surfers would swim up to an attack victim cause most of us frequent the same breaks on a regular basis. So that guy/girl that got bit could very well be someone you see on a regular basis, if not daily.
Got it, you live in Hawaii and somehow surfing doesn't apply to you, ok. And to throw in, not everyone is a bytch like you and many have swam up to someone being attacked.
Maybe you could chill the sharks out with your aloha spirit. There was a kid surfing during a comp in Florida and got bite by a shark and paddled back out and keep surfing. Great whites, tigers, bulls and such can bite you in half. I have seen to many sharks to be comfortable with, it toughens you up and humbles you at the same time All avid surfers live a life of writing checks their a$$ can't cash, but the bank always cashes them but it's always in the back of our minds that those checks might not clear; metaphorically.
The more you type the less you sound lime anybody who has spent any time in the water. I have swam with sharks. J grew up in northern California. The northern tip of the red triangle. Have seen numerous great whites. And I can tell you, from experience, the more interactions with sharks a person has the more comfortable they are around them. I know people that have shark attack scars. They were back in the water as soon as they could be. No fear or needless drive to get back at the sharks for doing what they do. You on the other hand sound like a scarred mid-westerner that has never seen the ocean except in the movie Jaws.
Surf just not good enough for you in cali. Brah people ride sharks, I don't know why you're spazing out. You probably have shark camo tattoos We have 4 days in a row coming up with headhigh days and I'm stoked. The only movies I watch are the ones with your mom in them