That really was my entire point. I've been in the same break many times before with similar waves and my shorter boards and had sessions that left me feeling like it wasnt worth it. When I headed over to check the waves out I was talking a an old timer buddy of mine and he was like, "I just got into an argument with some guy about how this is really a longboarders wave..." and while I was watching all these shortboarders flailing in the lineup, I was like.... "you know what... you're fcking right.... Im taking my longboard out..." and it was the best choice I made that day, other than actually going surfing.
What type board I use completely depends on the conditions and type of wave.. Ive seen many good well overhead days when I could use my log, so I dont believe that big days are only for shorties. It depends on the wind, tide, swell period, swell direction, and most importantly, where your at. For instance in the Northern OBX, I will paddle my 9'6" out during any conditions (at most spots), however from Nags Head south, I prefer more performance due to a steeper wave, but that also varies. As long as your having fun, and not taking it seriously. No one should ever be stressed out while surfing. People who fight, curse, get mad, or threaten violence on anyone else because of waves should just not be in the ocean.
you said it all. paddle out and surf lots of good waves, have fun, leave totally content. and choosing the right stick for the conditions/break is key..
I have to ask, for perspective of where you are coming from, how old are you? A small wave is not necessarily a longboard wave in my opinion. Here in NJ, even when it's small, it can be a steeper wave, suitable for short boarding...punchy beachbreaks are not good waves for longboarding. Some spots do seem best for longboards, basically a mellower, slopey, easier wave to surf (can name a few around here in NJ, Waikiki, Malibu type waves). But I see longboarders out on chest to head high+ steeper days here and it just doesn't make sense to me. Alot of guys use longboards as a crutch because they can't really surf. They are easier to paddle, easier to get into a wave, and basically they just go straight down the line like a kook, feet locked in one place, arms up, cowabunga style. These are a shortboarders worst nightmare, and yes they will get dropped on if they are sitting out the back taking all the waves (sorry, just the way it is). If you can actually longboard, like actually turn it, walk the board, toes on the nose, etc, then that's great. I love watching someone that can actually "longboard". Or if you are older (50+) and just like longboards because they are easier to surf, that's fine too. But for the most part, most longboarders I see in NJ and the northeast in general are on them because they just don't know how to surf anything else...plain and simple.
This is the dumbest post ever. You say take the right equipment out? You surf a long board and I guarantee you cant short board (no your 7'6 NSP is not a short board). If the waves are 8 ft and firing then a short board is called for, but if your on a long board you will still be sitting way outside and get first shot at every single wave. So according to your logic everyone should long board always? Long boarding sucks and you waste waves standing there doing nothing. You should go share a break with the boogie boarders and waste waves together. So no matter what equipment the day calls for you will be "sitting waaaaaaay outside" and eventually your gonna get punched in the face. Don't ever think about going to California with this mentality or anywhere besides your terrible northeast beach break for that matter. Man i cant tell you how much I hate you
Im in my 30s. I have been surfing since my early teens. My longboard gets used about 1 out of 20times I surf. I can walk it, I can turn it... but I do prefer my shorter boards. the wave in question was about waist high and pretty steep, for a waist high wave.... and without the early entry there was pretty much zero shot at making a section.
you must rip on your morey doyle with that plastic red fin. lol. I use my long board maybe one out of 20times I surf.
I can tell how everyone will vote in the upcoming election by what the comments are. It breaks down into two groups: 1. You take any wave you feel like it, and 'f' everyone else. It's not your fault they are out of shape/have the wrong equipment/not as good 2. You are not a wave hog because you feel it's not fair to others. Really interesting actually -
Meh...ride whatever the hell the wave calls for. Nothing uglier than a dude hopping up and down on a 1 foot roller on a short board trying to "rip." at the same time, nothing worse than some log kook sitting ten feet out and blowing head high waves cause he can't ride a shortie. If you were taking a few and letting a lot roll by than who cares? People who get angry about surfing are complete tools--go surf
If I'm on my longboard I don't mind a Gidgett wave once in a while especially if its small but if it's chest high or bigger and you drop in on me your gonna get warned. Keep it up and I'm gonna do my best to shove my 9'2 thru the back of your skull, just saying.
I know exactly what your thinking but the telling thing about your post is the way you framed your comment. Only a person from one particular political party would word it that way. I would bet the nice guys are voting the exact opposite of what your thinking.
My understanding of the rule is that to have the right of way from the outside, it is necessary to be fully up and riding on the wave--not merely paddling--before the wave gets close enough to anyone else for them to get it. If someone else is in the path of the peak, and you cannot be into the wave--up and riding--before that, then you do not have right of way. The wave belongs to the person at the peak, or closest to the breaking part of the wave. One needs to be very far outside to have enough room to be fully into the wave before anyone else can get it. Was this the case?
yea I don't understand why this is ok... Like said in a previous post. What if a guy on a SUP paddled out 10 feet past you and did the same thing to you. All day longgg. Would that still be ok????? Funny how everyone's avoided that post. Like this one probably will be too.
There was no catching these waves out past where I was sitting. I was also the only one taking these waves clear across the beach.
What does how far you go have anything to do with it?? You always go farther with a longboard regardless of the conditions. And a SUP can always catch waves further out then a longboard. I've seen guys ride waves with SUPs all the way out, and finish their rides before the wave even breaks. Or even if a sup couldn't a wavejet could. Or what if it was just a longboarder with a much stronger paddle then you. It's besides the point what equipment they are using. The point is if someone was doing the same to you because they could catch them further out would that be ok? By the way, if you think that you are better then these guys on their shortboards "blowing it" then think again. They are the ones trying to progress. Guys like you have a good time at the expense of others, and in spite of progression. You ride a 3 foot wave on a longboard and hardly exert yourself throughout the entire session. You will never get better like this. Life is not always about having the most fun in the moment; Sometimes it is about longterm progression. "Happiness is neither virtue or pleasure, nor this thing or that, but simply growth. We are happy when we are growing.", William Butler Yeats... Learn to include the happiness of others in your decision making. Despite what you think, guys like you are a problem in this sport.
I'd say about 35% tony kornhieser 65% glenn beck? I mean youre talking about sports and athleticism but you have a high amount of hate and discontent in your rhetoric and maybe some cloaked fear of being burned by a longboarder. You should go into radio or get yourself a tv show or something... You're pretty dramatic. I bet you could make yourself fake cry talking about surfing to show you're more dedicated and love the sport, no dammit the way of life! better and more than anyone. Idsmashh do longboarders owe you something?
