Thats weird, magicseaweeds shows that the swell is at 7ft with a 9 second period with wind blowin right in the water, but the report on this site says the waves are not rideable...must be swell direction.
Hi hatetoregister, Wish that forecast was correct!!! The winds are cranking now at 20+ from the north, which is offshore for us so anything that could sneak in here is being blown down to nothing. Plus there is no east fetch in this high/lo- pressure convergence-type induced windswell at all, which lowers our chances even more. With no disrespect to Magic Seaweed, they always, always overstate the wave conditions and forecasts - likely because they are providing the offshore conditions. It is ~7 feet ---- just offshore once you get out of the wind shadow of the coast (http://www.cormp.org/ - see buoy LEJ3 & the Frying Pan Tower). We see this often with Magic Seaweed with surfers stopping by the shop wondering where the waves are. Cheers -
the NE swell direction will bypass the south facing beaches. Yes, magicseaweed will only show offshore average sea state, while swellinfo will show what is making it into your beach.