I got skunked on the Danielle swell over the weekend. I got skunked on the Danielle swell over the weekend. I surfed Delaware Saturday at 5:30am and was shocked to see flatness. I was able to ride a couple of waves, but pretty much sucked and lefted think I will be in New Jersey the following day to score some better surf. Sunday 7:00am: Well New Jersey for the most part sucked. We check Lock Arbor and it was flat, Belmar was firing with chest to head high with plus sets, but shutting down (Unrideable). We did finally find a great spot that was firing at about chest to head high with clean perfect lines and a very easy paddle out. I will keep this break a secrete and not reveal it's location, because it was to good to be true and if I am in NJ and there is a south swell I'm on it. Unfortunately, many know of this place already and the lovely lifegaurds blackballed all surfing at 9:00am. Needless to say I and everyone was pissed. Now I know why I moved to Delaware. We made our way over to Sea Girt which was firing like Belmar, but mostly shutting down. I surfed a few waves, but just got mauled to death by closeouts. I am hoping for better swell this week, but doesn't look to good. I have to juggle work, family, tides, and crowds. I can't wait until winter. Did I just write that "I can't wait until winter"?
Had a fun day Monday. The always fickle 2.5 feet at 15 seconds actually provided some good waves for once at this one spot! I was suprised. I didn't get skunked this time. Inconsistent, but that made for an easy paddle out.
The waves in VB the past few days have been a lot of fun, considering how dry it has been. I'm really not used to these flat conditions so I was stoked over this good size swell that came through over the weekend. Only problem is I was surfing Croatan yesterday and it was ONLY breaking right. I SUCK at going right haha.
I left my local break and tryed oc which was probably stomach chest breaking way inside as usual and closing out. Went to asseateage md bigger but still breaking way inside and closing out unless you were positioned good. Then went to my local break and it was going off super fun chest to head, long rides. Probably piss alot of people on delmarva off but i think people think oc is so great just because of the tall buildings, and population of the city. I do think it holds small swell better but bigger swell, go somewhere else, buy a boat or something explore alittle.
Back side is more fun, IMHO. Just make it to the bottom, get on your back foot, and lean into that mother f###ker! Watch some videos of kelly or parko (anybody that shreds, really) going backside, there is a lot to be learned for those guys, no matter how good / bad you are.
The key to backside is to turn your shoulders and hips more into the wave instead of having them parallel to the board,
For the thousandth time... These are 2 pics that I snapped off when i got out of the water at dead high tide. I didnt bother to wait 20 minutes for a drainer set, i didnt expect this kind of scrutiny. confirmed 6 foot swell = head high sets. Still peeling and occasionally tubing at dead high tide (photographed) = bombs at low tide.