Soul surfing, rippa shredda, proneness, big wave charging, sandbar wadingnonswimmer

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by JayD, Jan 28, 2016.

  1. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    This plus barrel slut stylee.
     
  2. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    DPs....lol, and the chic on the beach thing is funny. It always seems to make me try a little harder or charge a little more, or go a little deeper:cool:
     

  3. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
     
  4. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Dawn Patrol, I think you got it figured out mate.

    I think for me, it has and is an evolution. Skipping school for every little NE wind swell and doing floaters and being irie was a great way to cut my teeth in to this life style. I love the East Coast and all it's fickle faults. Traveling up and down the east coast...Florida trips in the winter all to "score". I always short boarded (except for the ultragromhood when it was about the body surfing and boarding).

    Traveling and surfing different places, spending time on Oahu, and trying all kinds of waves and boards really made me more connected with it. I have always been more of a power surfer, looking for big pits and trying stick the tale. I have to say my favorite is big bottom turns and grabbing rail backside and pulling in. Not sure why but I would much rather get barreled backside versus frontside. Love floating sections and connecting. My style is not the best....sometimes I feel like I am boxing someone out in basketball.

    I have many different boards. 5' 11"....6'4"s...6",8", 8' fun, 9'6" tanka, 6'0" shellfish, and three boards on Oahu. I will surf just about any type of wave (Never really went super big but surfed Pipe and Sunset a few memorable sessions, big Tres, a few other spots with some size). I had a 7'6" pin that maxed me out. These days give me some over head glassy conditions and I am stoked.

    The feeling of a good session is hard to beat. I too enjoy sunsets and really dig the dawn patrol and being out there first...especially when it's good. I really dig Maria's and Pavones and Waikiki evening sessions. Then grabbing and ice cold one and taken it all in.

    Oh and nothing better than some heavy punk music and coffee and surfing a mean dp session.
     
  5. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Thanks JayD, solid thread
     
  6. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    It's the while experience man. Get up at 4:30, enjoy a cup of coffee, check the conditions on line, drive down watching first light on A1A, no cars in sight, listening to Billy Idols Rebel Yell and other high octane music. Open up the gate, check out whose car is there, watch the sun come up, high five my crew as each one arrives, hoping for a mob of eight Betties.

    Sunscreen up and catch up on everyone's outrageous weeks, wonder if Valhalla or FLSURFDOG might show :)

    Do some recon and get that first glorious paddle out. Drink in the amazingness of it all.

    If the legs are working, catch some superfun glides on the longboard and keep trying to turn faster. Ride prone of the legs suck that day.

    Last as long as possible until spent and just keep grinning at my buddies and swear we will keep doing this like, forever. Life is so good.
     
  7. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
  8. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Nice Betty...."Drink in the amazingness of it all", that's it....
     
  9. live aloha

    live aloha Well-Known Member

    508
    Oct 4, 2009
    1. Wipe out 6 times out of 10, but I'll usually go for it anyway. Of the 4 waves I make, 2 are pathetic, 1 is average, 1 is amazing. 1 out of every 50 waves I make, I'll manage to look like I know what the f#$@ I'm doing. I like to sit outside and wait for the big ones, until I get bored waiting...then I paddle inside to get more waves, and usually get mowed down by the big set 30 seconds later.

    2. I am not cool. I surf.

    3. Athletic? No. I wrestled in hs because I got cut from the FRESHMAN soccer team lol.

    4. Love sunsets and barrels. Prefer frontside barrels. Still haven't come out of a backside barrel ride...hopefully some day. :p

    5. DP, then a nap and whatever, short mid-morning sesh, then paddle back out again in the afternoon, dinner, then an evening sesh...that's what I'd prefer. Rarely time for that anymore, being married and such, so usually it's a 3 hr DP and done.

    6. BARRELS or offshore winds. Pointbreak, reef break, something predictable. F#$@ing beachbreaks are so unpredictable. I'd rather surf smaller waves at a consistent setup, but I'd much prefer big waves at a nice left point. My style is to try to do something a little different on each wave, something a little more critical. The best part of surfing for me is riding a wave in a way that I've never done before.
     
  10. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    ^^^ I like this. I try to not get too repetitive either, doing something different each time is what keeps it interesting. I recently did something that I can't recall ever doing before (maybe I have IDK). It may be something small to some of youse guys, but it was an amazing feeling.

    I dropped in backside / going right (i'm goofy), wave was about chest high, I first did a bottom turn, then found my line and did a couple pumps to pick up speed, dropped for another bottom turn and cranked it and went vertical for a roundhouse snap off the lip as the wave was closing out and I ended up completing the snap as the curtain was falling and I rode the curtain all the way down about 4 feet into the flats, landed it and rode out of it and spun around and paddled back out. This is like the only wave I can remember right now it's so stuck my head, even though I have ridden countless others, it just stands out.

    I've done similar things going front side, but this felt way better going backside for some reason.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2016
  11. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Only a matter of time, brother...
     
  12. The Lonesome Tractor

    The Lonesome Tractor Well-Known Member

    543
    Feb 13, 2012
    Standing on your toes into that turn and letting the section bring you around and down feels buttery. It's like the board just wants to do it. Like riding a burm on your bmx bike, but better...
     
  13. leethestud

    leethestud Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2010
    redheads over blondes, but blondes over brunette's

    Puss over dog

    Beer and wine and bourbon. Only drink top shelf, life is too short for cheap booze.

    joints over blunts

    nice folks over ****s

    Surfing over not surfing

    Just go outside and do sh*t
     
  14. leethestud

    leethestud Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2010
    redheads over blondes, but blondes over brunette's

    Puss over dog. Dogs are cool too, no offence dawg.

    Beer and wine and bourbon. Only drink top shelf, life is too short for cheap booze.

    joints over blunts

    nice folks over ****s

    Surfing over not surfing

    Just go outside and do sh*t
     
  15. JawnDoeski

    JawnDoeski Well-Known Member

    Aug 11, 2014
    Man being a "surfer" on the East Coast is a struggle dawgs

    You know you might go weeks without a shreddable face insight

    Surf when it's there skate or snowboard when it's not..one door closes other ones open...the spirit of the eternal shred bruhz

    Of course this life is a lot sweeter when you add a little sex drugs and rock n' roll
     
  16. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Yeah man, I don't pre-plan anything when I surf, I just let it happen, go with the flow and sometimes opportunities present them self. When I dropped into the wave, I had no idea that was what I was about to do, I just let the wave and board do their thing after seeing it in my mind just a millisecond before doing it.It was just a reaction to the playing field so to speak. It felt natural, like it's what my board wanted to do, weird, but awesome.
     
  17. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    yes they do!