wow...pretty biting commentary there, lots of it spot on. Ken Rockwell is just sharing it on his website - he didn't write it.
I'll go first was a 7 at one time, now a 4, could be a 6 if the moneys right.(Not that I have the surf skills that people would shell out the dough for). I've always hated surf contest but I can't blame someone who finds a way to get paid to travel and surf. But what do I know?....I'm a moron.
Great idea! That would be easy tho... So which level is 'moron level' According to Barry- we would all be that level (except himself)
I just noticed that! Ken Rockwell is pretty much the man as far as photography. His reviews has helped me in choosing different lenses and camera bodies and such...
Great tread. I consider the time I've spent alone reminiscing about certain times ive spent in the ocean and the moments I've captured in my memory to be what I call soul surfing. Its good for my soul and so pleasurable to drift away to those sessions and hours where I am completely focuses and reacting to the wave and conditions. I'm never aware of anything else other than the moment I'm in while surfing. Its good to be alone or with someone .
Surfing is a sport like no other, that's even if you call it a sport. It's funny how you can remember the best waves you have ever rode.For a very short moment in time you can remember where it was,who you were with,what board you were riding.Heck I cant even tell you what I had for dinner 3 days ago.With surfing the good rides last a lifetime.
To me soul surfing has nothing to do with proficiency. It is about losing yourself in the moment. It is about those times when the planets, the wave and karma align. There is no valid explanation. Time slows while the brain races. A momentary glimpse of the emerald beyond. Serenity. These are rare but powerful moments. Sometimes I kick out of a special ride and those few precious seconds define the life I wish that I could stay in forever. As a wise man once told me; "Life is a task garden, heaven is a playground". If it could be bottled and shared, what a wonderful world it would be.
Wave dancing at its finest. Boundless joy. Pure stoke. Mother Ocean's embrace. merrily merrily merrily merrily....Life is but a dream....
