They say in sports that an athlete is on the back end of their career when the game seems to speed up on them. If this is true, I am definitely on the back end of my surfing life (riding a shortboard at least) because now all I work on is building up my speed when surfing. Years before I never would even think of speed, it just came easy and with out a thought. On the positive side though, it has made me a better surfer and I now surf better than I ever have in the past. Not sure why, does focusing more on speed make you a better surfer. I now find myself blocking out all other thoughts and only concentrate on speed..speed….speed! Anyone here in their golden years of surfing have the same issue?
although i'm 15 years beyond it.....i kinda think my ability basically improved right up to age 45. after that - and i'll never give up a shortboard - things started sliding downhill. fact: excess weight will kill your shortboarding faster than age or conditioning.
I can still generate lots of down the line speed, due to knowing the waves better and being able to find the power pockets and correct lines. Also my body mechanics are sound, so I instinctively know when to coil and uncoil. My problem with speed is getting to my feet fast enough on a wave that is breaking fast. I have noticed this split second interval is taking a much longer fraction of a second than it used to, and therefore you won't see me surfing Pipeline. Or any wave that breaks that fast. Too slow to my feet, plain and simple.
I didn't get to surf for a few years, but since I have been back, everything has been getting better or should I say, coming back. Surfdog, you are correct on the pop up timing, sometimes I feel slower.
I recently discovered I've been going too fast. I was getting too far out ahead of the pocket and end up doing longer sweeping turns. Now with some stalling action I can stay right in front of the break and make sharper turns. Next step is to merge both together and control changing speed better.
years ago I couldn't imagine riding a 6'5'' but I have grown up... and out.. learned about the 4th dimension = volume. 6'5'' it is.
pretty much sums it up...everything about a short board is control. Concaves, knifey rails, hard edges, etc. all pretty much puts on the brakes in one sense or another. Speed just improves your ability to control all these elements.
Everything seems faster as my reflexes and reaction time slows down . . . But then I started old . . . still trying to get down to a 6'6" before I give up and get a SUP and no one will speak to me anymore! Lucky enough to be fit and healthy. Well, except for the pacemaker . . .
WCS, I feel you're right on with this. It's hardly linear speed at work and definitely more physical forces involved, however, my thoughts on a bottom turn are completely that stalling then releasing speed are the key to the next maneuver, be it hitting the lip or a wider cutback. My fastest drops and rides ever have involved a bottom turn where I basically surprised myself in how I was able to harness the speed by braking momentarily and controlling it. The barrells I've been in have been very short-lived, though on film I see the best barrell riders have the ability to brake and accelerate at will. Sic treads on them Z-rated tires.
