at tres palmas, IMO, under 8ft doesn't cut it. should mention i'm 220 lbs...for somebody say, half my size, its prob a dif story. oh and best way to learn exactly what size you need? go out there under-gunned.
im no big wave surfer, but one of the things i've learned the hard way is that Delmarva 6-10 foot surf is a whole lot different than Pt. Judith, Swamis, Indo, El Salvador 6-10 foot surf (just to name a few spots ive tried taking on larger waves. big days on Delmarva (and I would guess many other east coast sandbar breaks) are last minute-jacking up, bottom-dropping-out, six stroke-take off under the lip entry into a cramped pit. Yeah a few inches longer with more volume is nice, ample rocker helps, pulled in tail. But our beach breaks with size are a completely different thing than big surf elsewhere, and require a different approach.
on the north shore of oahu - assuming there are 30 main surfing beaches - a sensible argument can be made that a 30 board quiver is appropriate.
I weigh 165 and am 5'9" and 55 years old. When it gets close to the DOH range, I like a 6'9" step up that is 2.66" thick and 20.5 wide and swallow tail so it is still loose. When it gets legit DOH and hollow, too much extra length can be cumbersome, but volume helps. I like my CI BBG that is 7'0", 19" wide, round tail, and 2.75" thick. It is still maneuverable in good surf and gets me in early, steep and deep. I used to have a CI that was 7'4", but it was too cumbersome on the duck dives, and didn't fit in the barrel on a steep concave drop. Big wave fins help alot!!!, without having changing your stick. When I was younger and more fit, I used to ride smaller, shorter boards in bigger waves, but if I could do it over again, I would opt for more volume and thickness on boards in good surf, just to get in earlier, and also to go through the voodoo chop on the faces in heavy drops.
my step up for double overhead is a 6'6 also but 20 wide. i know thats wide and the rail I think is 2.5 but I also get the wave when its big thats the biggest issue is paddling into the wave ontime. Plus wearing a big thick wetsuit the float helps. I would do exactly what you said just add some volume to it. hope you need a step up soon i cant remember the last time i used mine!
True that, good advice, thanks! I was looking at some larger Mick Fanning fins recently to try out so maybe i'll get those for my upcoming trip to hold me over till I get another stick. I have a 6'10" WRV FunFish still, but don't know if that's the right shape for that stuff. Probably not. So it seems 6'9" - 7ft might be the call being that we are of similar size.
BTW... I'm 6'1, 190lbs, and reasonably fit for 50 years old. I ride a 7'0 x 20 x 2 9/16 rounded pin in the biggest surf we get here in Jerz. Ample continuous rocker, reverse double concaved vee bottom. Thruster setup with the Simon fins towed and canted slightly less than on a shortboard. Plenty of rocker.
I agree si, shorter boards more volume, but I do love a pintail in bigger waves. It just grips so well.
K well your wrong. What were what bouy measurements and where was I during what doh sessions? Like your asking me for proof? Lol I've surfed legit doh in seaside bay head deal atlantic city lavalette jenks maybe a few others. To varying degrees of sucess of course. I don't check the bouys. Only in nj yes but again the money thing I can't afford to travel. Ive surfed doh all over nj. Don't have the money for schnazzzy fins or a brand new step up. I make what I have work when I can. I'm sure you won't believe me and don't agree with some of my methods for surfing. Doesn't change my life. Keep hating if you feel it's necessary for you. No I'm not a schtickler for fins. Not sure what comments in the Pipe Masters your talking about. Anyway. Whatever. Ok. I used already more time than I should on this. Idc if you believe me or like me. Just want to inform you maybe aren't as smart as you think and your wrong on this one. Good day.
My neighbor here in pr is a legit big wave guy. Last time tres broke, 12/15 faces he was on a 7' gun. I am going with him monday, hoping for 10/12 ft faces, will be using my wifes 7'10" verner21' 14' 2 3/4, need it. He says its a slopy drop, but you want to get in early and get down the line. I am 5'11" 175, like to be 165lbs, but eating at way to many panderias....
my gut says thats a bit small. for me small tres my 8/0; big my 9/6....and a lot of channel sitting....
Thanks dude, I think that about confirms it for me. Hope you get shacked out of your mind man, i'm jealous as I sit here in my office right now typing this
I have an 8'1" McTavish 8 ball that is more of a mini LB, doubt that's what I want to bring out there, but I have taken it out in well OH surf before. It came as a 2+1 but ditched the side bites a while back for the Single. I'd probably throw side bites back in if I dared to take that thing out in that type of surf. I'm sure it's doable but it's probably not ideal.
nothing wrong with giving that a go; tres (usually) has a well defined channel to which one can (ideally) escape the outside sets. that said; no; thats not it. many moons ago i had a HIC 7/6 pintail trifin....worked well there.... if you got the time go check out the inventory of used boards at your local big deal shop. seems round here at least theres more than one quality gun in the used board rack...i'd look hard at any CI 7/0 to 8/0 you can find...
I've only surfed Tres when it was big a handful of times, but the thing about Tres for me, when it does get big, is the current and how shifty the peak can be. If you're out of position and a cleanup set comes, it will put you through the RINGER. You definitely want a board that will paddle well in the current, and out race the sections that will come up behind you and blow you off your board. It's not so much a gnarly air drop wave, but it can break fast down the line, with a lot of water moving around. "Baby Tres"... at like 8-10'... is one of my favorite waves, though. Not such a big fear factor to make you hold back.
yeah thats it. a lot of water movin round. strong, swift, and effective paddling necessary. if it was just puuuurrrfect tres - one could prob cut off a foot of length of the board.....like wildos...kinda.
+1 rode a 6'4" step up at the time...out there years ago on a decent swell and was getting punished repeatedly...loved watching the other guys out there cruise right by me...was definitely too young and dumb to be out there back then...
