Do you guys above say "your late twenties" feel that you find the same stoke about a swell or surfing in general as you do when you were a grom...i sometimes long for the days of being a grom. If not what do you do to raise that stoke level...Not saying I do or dont, kinda trying to figure that out...
so basically you're saying you are trying to find out how to get the same amount of stoke you used to have as a grom?
I'll break out of my twenties this year and after a hiatus for a few years I've never been more stoked for swell. I've always been sub par surfing and refuse to accept that. I like the challenge. The chance that any day could have that wave better than I've ever had keeps me coming back. I could see how the stoke might fade if your content with your ability and haven't progressed in a while. Maybe you need to challenge yourself more. Personally, I'd like to see a picture of you doing an aerial maybe with a grom duck diving for his life into the wave.
