Style and Flow

Their shoes won't fit in the stirrups

 

It's funny to me when I watch these kinds of clips... or when people talk about it in conversation... how everybody knows exactly what "flow state" is. But it's like describing a color or a taste... you can only talk about it in relation to something else. You have to put it into a context in order to express what it feels like.

I think you can't intentionally "put yourself into a flow state." You can, however, put yourself into a situation where a flow state can be achieved. It may or may not be achieved, but it certainly won't be unless you put yourself in that situations where it can happen.

 

^^^I feel ya, brother.

 

Meditation, both still and moving meditations, will gradually open your mind and help you to react properly to dynamic situations on land and on wave. Not a magic pill to get into the flow zone, but helpful in subtle ways. Makes you more flexible and open to the moment.

Check out what Gerry Lopez has to say.

[video=youtube;6x3XITyfV5Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6x3XITyfV5Y[/video]

 

Surfing as a metaphor for flow and living, riding the horse in the direction it's going, and a bit more wisdom from Guru Gerry

[video=youtube;nlgidvCLQ1c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlgidvCLQ1c[/video]

 

One thing that stands out like a sore thumb is ugly surfing. To me the one thing that defines all forms of ugly surfing is flailing arms. This usually comes from the person who is trying way too hard.

I think of one local surfer. He can surf. He generates plenty of speed and has a decent bag of tricks. I've even seen him land an air 360. Problem is he flails his arms so badly that his surfing is repulsive to watch. This young guy tries real hard. Problem is he's trying too hard and from there it all falls apart.

If you watch almost any great surfer you will see that their arms are relatively quiet. If you're trying too hard flow is lost. Flapping your arms does not make you go faster.

 

^^^I agree with you on the arm flailing. It looks terrible. I think most can agree on what is considered to be good style.
BUT...
What is your definition of "great" surfing?
Someone who puts together the most maneuvers on a wave and does it with style?
Someone who can 'bust' airs?
The surfer with the highest heat scores?
What about longboarding? Is the guy/gal who glides down the line, shimmies up to the nose, and does it all with
style considered a 'great' surfer?
What about big wave surfers? Those that just want to make that massive drop, bottom turn, and get to the shoulder before being obliterated?
What about the work-a-day surfer? Guys that are super stoked to just be able to get out for a DP before work or a sun set session afterwards? They know their place in the lineup, abide by the proper etiquette, and are just having tons of fun out there?

 

C. Bukowski

Style is the answer to everything.
A fresh way to approach a dull or dangerous thing
To do a dull thing with style is preferable to doing a dangerous thing without it
To do a dangerous thing with style is what I call art

Not many have style
Not many can keep style
I have seen dogs with more style than men,
although not many dogs have style.
Cats have it with abundance.

 

Speaking of cats with style, reminds me of Da Cat

[video=youtube;uMz57mGoE8s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMz57mGoE8s[/video]

 

I've seen lots more stylish surfing than the above clip, but from what everyone who was anyone back in the day said aboot him, Dora was the style master of his time.

I guess style on a wave is like obscenity in the eyes of the court: hard to define, but you know it when you see it. Each locality has their own definition.

 

I have a pretty dim view of longboarding. I see way too many people on them and very few of them are competent surfers let along good or great. Most are just using them as a crutch for lack of skill or to boost their wave count. At the breaks I surf I can think of about 4 longboarders who I consider to be great surfers. Only 2 of the 4 ride a longboard as their primary surf craft and one is about 55 and was a great shortboarder before he became a longboarder.

Great surfers are those who make the most of every wave and surf it to its fullest in a visually appealing manner.
Like someone said above, you know it when you see it. There are lots of ways to do it and its not limited to any one type of equipment or contest parameters.

"Fun" is a whole different topic. This thread is about style. Some of the people having the most fun totally suck at surfing.......and some of the best surfers aren't having fun at all.

 

I have to agree. Style is a lot of things... everything from approach to execution. Style can be "old school," "aggressive," "laid back," "progressive,"... there's all kinds of different styles. And each can be executed well, or poorly... and that determination is based on what someone else sees and thinks of it.

Flow, on the other hand, is completely internal. It's binary... it's there or it's not. You're in that state of being... however fleeting or persistent... or your not. And no one on the outside looking in can tell.

 

I think Kelly's surfing has inspired and blown minds on the possibilities of flow in all types of waves, from knee high Cocoa Beach to giant Pipe. His innate ability to feel and exploit the sweet spot of the wave is amazing to watch.

 

I'll probably get flamed for this, but Mark Richards's surfing always wanted to make me puke.

Yes he was a great surfer but his arm flailing style was just too over the top imo

Then, to make matters worse, everyone was trying to emulate his "amp" style and penchant for bright colors during the early '80's New Wave craze.

Surfing was hilarious during that period

 

https://i.imgur.com/WBNrjht.gifv

 

love that video.