Most surfers have unique styles when they first learn to surf. It's a balancing act that gets honed over time riding waves, but some positions remain comfortable throughout the process. A matter of good or bad habits can ultimately make you good or bad. Attitude is key to better ones self-expression.
Anyone else have this: I'll go a few sessions with average surfing, then I get one stellar wave and it unlocks my style, like it was a secret level. The stoke gets going, and I get like 10 waves in a row that are all career waves.
I chop hop every wave and when I chop/kick outI throw my hands up in the air to show my disgust for the wave I just rode. Now that's style!
I was talking to a photographer dad who takes a lot of pictures of his son. You've probably seen his pics online and elsewhere, and his kid is a ripper. He told me, "Hands up over your head... good picture. Hands up over your head PALMS UP, and it's a great picture." Little things like that help define style in our popular culture, which is now in an age of very advanced surfing, even among the groms. But is that true style? I like to think that true style isn't defined by popular culture... isn't contrived or done on purpose. It's about surfing loose and naturally, and in that way, becomes purely individual, and not popular-social.
One of my good friends surfs with his back arm up like hes a waiter carrying a tray of food. We call him the pizza man.
I'm upset he didn't bite on my comment 3 years ago. Were you two really murkin *****es and hurtin feelins?
Growing up surfing Reef Road on a twin fin made my style suck, I developed a wide stinkbug stance to overcompensate the looseness of the 5'9" twinfin swallow tail in DOH surf. Took me years to get rid of it. When I got an Indo board, and started surfing a LB in small clean waves, my style smoothed out, my stance narrowed. I don't spazz as much, trying to fit too many turns into a section. Once I get my LazyBoy mounted on an SUP, with the stripper pole on the bow for better planing, I'll be styling big time.
Micheal JR was an instant classic. Vape enthusiast and AR aficionado on a quest to defend the elderly and handicapped, all whilst learning to serf.
I have no idea what I look like... I've never been videoed. I've seen a few stills here and there, but other than that... no clue.
Rare footage of LBCrew, mislabeled for anonymity porpoises [video=youtube;gkdBuTaoW5A]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkdBuTaoW5A[/video]
