summer longboarding sessions

Glad you're enjoying the log. I normally walk my longboard out, rather than trying to duck dive. Grab the tail and push your board over the waves. If you are in big surf, flip your board over and hang on underneath.

Lose the leash - it gets in the way when cross-stepping. I surfed my 9'0" during the hurricane last summer and I had a blast. Side bites certainly help out in larger surf; however, you will be able to manage if you only have a center fin. Just stay back when locking in the line.

 

Congrads on trying new things....and furthermore for discovering the bliss of longboarding.

Now duck diving is subjective with a longboard. First and foremost, I watch for the sets rolling in and try to "make my break" between sets. I get out as far as I can while standing or just before the sandbar, whichever is first, and I wait for down time between the sets.....then paddle like I might be crushed if I don't move fast enough.

Also you can use a semi-duck dive. If you find yourself with white water coming for you, push the nose down with the side rails while lifting your upper body off the board and let the wave go between your body and the board.

Then there is also the "O' shyt!" method, this is when you see the wave (looking huge) is going to break ON YOU, IN YOU, THROUGH YOU.....in this situation you bail off the board and swim for the bottom, letting your leash hold the board for you. If you don't have the liberty to let your board go, or the situation is somewhere between "O' no" and "O' shyt!", you can bail off the board but grab the leash close to the tail (board nose facing beach) and pull the tail down underwater with you, this will cause the wave to roll over you and the board.

On the leash front.....it depends on the day. If it's small (1-2.5 feet) and clean, I go leashless. If it's bigger I use a leash....if for no other reason than to help me get the board out. Also you can wear your leash on your calf, just below the knee.....this helps keep it out of your way for walking.

About getting on the nose.....I'm 5'10 and 155lbs, my nose rider is 9'6......in order to get my toes to the nose, I
have to arch my body weight back as far as possible. I have hung the 5, but still haven't made it to 10.

I'm not sure how big is too big for a longboard.....but I'm thinking it's all they use to have, so it's up to your coconuts. I personally have take a 9'6 nose rider out in overhead conditions....I'm a newbie chic....it works just fine if you know what your doing.....I didn't, but luck saved me and I still had fun...actually that day was the most epic wipe out I'd ever had, it actually stoked me. Anyway, I guess the best I can tell you is to MAKE SURE, on a big wave, that the nose stays in the air....Longboard + Flat On Face Of Big Wave = Coconut Beating

Hope that helps.

 

Dude.....dah! 9'4 board means you need a leash at least 9'4 leash. Wearing a 7' leash on a 9'4 board is very dangerous to YOU! I'm not going to get into the whole leash or no leash thing.....but if using a leash, it REALLY NEEDS to be the right length.

 

I have an unusual way of getting my board out to the lineup. I am a big guy so what I do is hold the nose of the board under my arm kind of like I'm trying to carry a football And pull it under the wave or whitewater. It works well for me because I weigh around 215. I can also slide down to the nose and just sit there balled up and punch through. In order to get some speed I paddle and kick my legs.

 

Yea man, you're going to need a longer leash if you are going to chain yourself to your board. I wear a 10' leash on larger days, regardless of log size (9', 9'6", 9'10"). 10' give you some slack, becuase the last thing you want is a log coiling back to your face. Check out Creatures' DNA leash. Worth the rage for longboard leashes.

 

you can paddle a lot faster on a log so you'll find it easier to make it over the crest. Its almost like a mental thing. If I know I can duck dive, I am happy to duck dive, if I know thats not an option, I paddle harder if whitewater is coming to you then either turtle or what I do is grab the nose, get that under the wave, as long as you don't lose your grasp you'll be fine. Apply a little bit of wax on the rails up by the nose to help that

 

SUPER dangerous practice and NOT recommended.

 

Agree. This is perhaps the stupidest thing to do for two reasons. One anyone behind or near you could get a board in the face because you were trying to save yourself and two a large enough wave can break a leash free from a board. (This happened to me after being knocked of my board by a large wave coming and not being able to get back on before the next wave came battering down) You may find yourself way out without a board in head plus sets. Personally its not a great feeling especially if you arms are spent from trying to paddle through head high sets to get past the break. Not to mention the leash cut through the tail of my board so I had to pay for the repair as well as be without my board for a week and a half. Duck diving is the way to go. If you get caught in the wrong place just hold on tight.

 

Dangerous for who? The rest of the statement, if shown in full, indicates that others are not near. I was told this practice by a few instructors....most of them life long surfers. So how is it dangerous for me? I'm not being a smart ass here, typing has no tone....I ask to make sure I am not putting myself at risk.

And brother with the leash breaking your board.....that's typically caused by your string being too long.

 

As much as possible, you should never ever bail. Even when you think you are alone, just for the purpose of it not becoming a habit. Also, it's difficult to know whether someone is paddling behind you. Someone could have been on a wave and paddling back out right after you, and it's such a dangerous practice to just let the board go when a big enough set passes. Such a scary moment when facing a wall of rushing whitewater with a loose board coming right for you.

 

its only dangerous if you are surfing around people. i read your statement but wanted to make sure others understood that this practice should rarely be done.

 

Just to make sure it's VERY CLEAR.......NEVER, EVER bail off your board with anyone near you.....by near you I mean within 50 yards or so.

I personally find myself surfing in a "asshole free zone"......with friends or alone.....very rare to I surf where everyone else is.

Thanks guys for making sure everyone knows.......you are right.

 

I rarely ever bail... but will admit had to a few times... One time got hit by the board and got stitches, and the last time I did (with no one around me), I broke my board in two. So it's dangerous to you, others, and your board.

 

purpleheadedyogurtslinger......That actually is them being nice Thanks for "protecting" me.

 

Now that's funny

 

Turn turtle!

Turtle rolls admittedly kinda suck compared to duck dives as far as efficiently moving past larger sets, which is why no matter who you are it's always a ***** to paddle a longboard out in larger waves with short wave periods. But if you turn turtle correctly it will keep you from being pushed back too far by a breaking wave. And don't be afraid to try longboards on faster waves. They're a blast.

The key is that when you turtle roll, hold the rails and let your body dangle off of the board more perpendicular to your board. Your body acts sort of like a sea anchor. Then as soon as the wave passes roll back over quick and paddle like hell to hopefully get over the next wave.