Ha! Its already gone. It took 6 hours for that swell to disappear...The noon NOAA WW3 model run had 8'@ 8 sec for sunday Delmarva, 6 p.m. run has 1.6 feet at 10 seconds. 7 days out is voodoo.
couple of qs....im trying my best to learn more about swells and such where is this swell coming from? how long will it last for and the forecast for nags head nc is 6-9 ft with 12 foot swell.. what is the difference in swell and wave height mean and also can someone tell me how this will look (ex.. surfable..rough)
- to get an idea of where the swell is coming from, look at the wave maps. zooming out is often helpful on the maps. - how long will it last for. Well, look at the forecast - 12 ft seas and 6-9 ft surf. Swellinfo predicts the wave face heights on the beach. The swell heights are open ocean swells that approach the coast. Wave face height is based on swell height, swell period, and swell direction (not to mention many other variables). But open ocean swell heights aren't the same as the breaking wave. So, 12ft @ 10 seconds, may be 6-9. But, 4ft @ 15 seconds may also be 6-9. In general, Swellinfo plays on the conservative side for bigger swells. Also, when you say the swell all of a sudden disapears, this isn't the case. Look at the wave maps, and you an see that the storm track just stays more south then the previous model cycles. So, where the Southeast is still big, but the Mid Atlantic isn't see the swell by Sunday. Since weather or surf forecasting relies heavily on the model guidance, you have to keep an eye on these updates, and that is why forecasts can changes so much. This is especially true for East Coast surf forecasts, because most of our swells come from storms right off the coast and any small change in the track forecast can make gigantic differences.
i literally read this thread probably 5 minutes after seeing the forecast, looked back at it, and it was gone.
Whats the big deal, it was choppy smegma that showed up anyway. Probably would have been a tiny little window after it cleaned up that may have had rideable surf, but I doubt it would have been in the head high+ range like it was showing
