...is goin g to suck for me...just got hmoe from a halloween party & i'm waatyyyy too drunk for 3 am. i'm either going to miss the whole swele or be oto fcket p to surf...either way, your welcome! this is my fualt...happy surfing...
its 3:40 right now and my room is spinning..don't know if i should just stay up all night then surf , or sleep and risk not waking up for dawn patrol.
update.. got to the beach 8am chest high slow breaking lefts, tide got to it fast. went to a sandbar spot fast hollow barrels a lot of fun. after 3hrs i was freeeeeezing
looks super drifty down here...north side looks rideable though. I might be a puss and wear booties today
it was good day i'll say that. morning, and early afternoon at least. started to die out later afternoon around 3;00/3;30.
South Belmar lefts were working in the AM on Sunday. Really fun, not too many people out either. Only thing that made things weird and awkward was some kid that had a hankering to drop in on me intentionally a couple of times. I found out from reliable sources that he's an a-hole. So now I know his hostility wasn't completely my fault OK, maybe I paddled around him once or twice or 5 times, but hey, us old guys gotta get some too.
OCMD was sweet all morning. High tide and north swell angle and offshores were setting up barrelling lefts. Shot this around 8:30 then paddled out into pure goofy-footer bliss for the rest of the morning!
Sounds like everyone got some was a great day to surf surprised how long the swell held up. I didnt get out till 11am it was still firing after an hour started to fade a switch of boards and it was so fun.. I Like going backside in some juicy waves!
