Surf books

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by cleavland steamer, Jan 11, 2016.

  1. ukelelesurf

    ukelelesurf Well-Known Member

    402
    Apr 25, 2007
    Just finishing Barbarian Days and really enjoying it. I could see how it could not be everyone's cup of tea. If you are not into literature I could see hating it and it is more of a memoir than a surf book really.

    I can't believe no one has mentioned "Crazy for the Storm." My favorite surf book. Great writing, a true story that is gripping....please go out and get it now! cheers everyone!
     
  2. cleavland steamer

    cleavland steamer Well-Known Member

    105
    Jan 8, 2016
    Oh dayum, I forgot about Crazy for the Storm. Awesome adventure story with plenty of surf and ski tales. Can't believe what that kid had to deal with. I'd put that one right up there in top 5 must reads for adventure books
     

  3. peakhunter

    peakhunter Well-Known Member

    81
    Sep 5, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2016
  4. red dog

    red dog Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2015
    1st book, The kooks guide to surfing! EDDIE WOULD GO, Stuart Coleman! Big Wave, edited by Clint Willis! Surfing cold water, Glenn S Gordinier! Closest thing to surfing is a great surf book with a little imagination!
     
  5. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Great read. He describes the nuance of surfing better then anyone.
     
  6. DonQ

    DonQ Well-Known Member

    Oct 23, 2014
    I can't get into surfing books, most are cliche. The two books I have read are:
    Izzy Paskowitz "scratching the horizon" very good read about a true surfing consumed life.
    "The big drop" a culmination of stories from various big wave surfers. Inspirational, courage in the face of danger thing.
    Check em. That is all...
     
  7. ukelelesurf

    ukelelesurf Well-Known Member

    402
    Apr 25, 2007
    Agreed. I'm glad no one has ,mentioned THE WAVE by Susan Casey. It's theeeeee worst. She swings from laird hamilwanks nut sac for the entire ride....really unbelievable how egotistical he comes across....what a terrible book
     
  8. cleavland steamer

    cleavland steamer Well-Known Member

    105
    Jan 8, 2016
    Uke- I do like The Wave, but mostly from the scientific perspective of how the biggest waves form. I totally agree that she cups his balls the entire time, but other than that, it was an interesting read. The whole African Atlantic coast and the dangers of what those shipping lanes deal with... and the North sea... when Laird wasn't involved as much in the writing, there was some insightful content.
    Also, Casey's book, The Devil's Teeth, is awesome- the Faralon Islands off San Fran and huge white shark habitat is worth the time. Can't imagine surfing there, although I've read stories about the crazies that have...

    Oh, and awesome avatar, UKE! Please respond as much as possible ;)
     
  9. cleavland steamer

    cleavland steamer Well-Known Member

    105
    Jan 8, 2016
  10. World B Free

    World B Free Well-Known Member

    600
    Feb 7, 2013
    Check out Orange Sunshine by Nicholas Schou.

    It is the true story of "The Brotherhood", who were essentially a surf gang who funded their wave chasing by smuggling hash and LSD around the world. It is a cautionary tale as to be expected. What starts out as fun and games grows increasingly dangerous and violent as the story transitions from '60's hippie-style mellow, to the rise of Cartels and the DEA in the '70's.

    Essentially this is the classic sex, drugs and rock 'n roll rollercoaster starring some really interesting but ultimately flawed characters.
     
  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    The book version of Big Wednesday is a good quick read that goes into a little more detail than the movie.
     
  12. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
  13. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    The Devil's Teeth is super informative on the subject of Great Whites. I really enjoyed it.

    For a lighter read, try The Glass Bikini by Seymour Hair.
     
  14. Barry bottomfeeder

    Barry bottomfeeder Well-Known Member

    252
    Oct 19, 2015
    For a lighter read, try The Glass Bikini by Seymour Hair.[/QUOTE]

    I dove right into that one head first and didnt come up until i was finished. Smiles all around
     
  15. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Always wondered about 'Orange Sunshine' - - ordered it on AMZN, thx WorldB.
     
  16. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
  17. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    Just finished reading "Stoked" by Bob McTavish. Kind of a random choice and i am SO glad i picked it up. It actually seems like it was written by Bob without a whole lot of polishing up by an editor...he's a stoked guy, and was right there witnessing, participating in, and creating a critical few years of surfing history. Now world renowned spots being explored for the first time, and board designs being altered radically and quickly to keep pace.
     
  18. bubs

    bubs Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2010
    I used to read my friends copy of "tan burrows book of hot surfing"

    That's about the extent of it. Doubt if read a surf story book.
     
  19. CBSCREWBY

    CBSCREWBY Well-Known Member

    Feb 21, 2012
    Thanks Mitchell. I'm a McTavish fan. gonna pick a copy up!
     
  20. Mikey

    Mikey Well-Known Member

    244
    Oct 3, 2008
    In the middle of Mike Hynson's memoir: Trancendental Memories of a Surf Rebel. Has a lot of stuff about the Brotherhood and drug smuggling. I have to wonder if Hynson is full of ****e or not.