Just finishing Barbarian Days and really enjoying it. I could see how it could not be everyone's cup of tea. If you are not into literature I could see hating it and it is more of a memoir than a surf book really. I can't believe no one has mentioned "Crazy for the Storm." My favorite surf book. Great writing, a true story that is gripping....please go out and get it now! cheers everyone!
Oh dayum, I forgot about Crazy for the Storm. Awesome adventure story with plenty of surf and ski tales. Can't believe what that kid had to deal with. I'd put that one right up there in top 5 must reads for adventure books
Surfing Long Beach Island Caroline Unger "This book is a must read for all East Coast surfers....." https://play.google.com/store/books...US&gclid=CKm2uK74osoCFYKvNwodVA4ItA&gclsrc=ds unger blowing up all the spots
1st book, The kooks guide to surfing! EDDIE WOULD GO, Stuart Coleman! Big Wave, edited by Clint Willis! Surfing cold water, Glenn S Gordinier! Closest thing to surfing is a great surf book with a little imagination!
I can't get into surfing books, most are cliche. The two books I have read are: Izzy Paskowitz "scratching the horizon" very good read about a true surfing consumed life. "The big drop" a culmination of stories from various big wave surfers. Inspirational, courage in the face of danger thing. Check em. That is all...
Agreed. I'm glad no one has ,mentioned THE WAVE by Susan Casey. It's theeeeee worst. She swings from laird hamilwanks nut sac for the entire ride....really unbelievable how egotistical he comes across....what a terrible book
Uke- I do like The Wave, but mostly from the scientific perspective of how the biggest waves form. I totally agree that she cups his balls the entire time, but other than that, it was an interesting read. The whole African Atlantic coast and the dangers of what those shipping lanes deal with... and the North sea... when Laird wasn't involved as much in the writing, there was some insightful content. Also, Casey's book, The Devil's Teeth, is awesome- the Faralon Islands off San Fran and huge white shark habitat is worth the time. Can't imagine surfing there, although I've read stories about the crazies that have... Oh, and awesome avatar, UKE! Please respond as much as possible
Another good adventure surf book is Sex Lives of Cannibals, by Martin Troost: http://www.amazon.com/The-Sex-Lives-Cannibals-Equatorial/dp/0767915305
The book version of Big Wednesday is a good quick read that goes into a little more detail than the movie.
http://www.amazon.com/Surfing-Cold-Water-Glenn-Gordinier/dp/0981896022 That book was my favorite. Very readable book about the authors surfing adventures mostly in New England, but other cold water places too. Kook was fun. World in a Curl was very interesting.
The Devil's Teeth is super informative on the subject of Great Whites. I really enjoyed it. For a lighter read, try The Glass Bikini by Seymour Hair.
For a lighter read, try The Glass Bikini by Seymour Hair.[/QUOTE] I dove right into that one head first and didnt come up until i was finished. Smiles all around
Some may find this interesting. Long time VB surfer, school teacher, and writer who is being inducted into the East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame. Some of his books are listed in the article. http://pilotonline.com/sports/outdo...cle_49314957-2300-5757-a436-ae298ffb7e73.html
Just finished reading "Stoked" by Bob McTavish. Kind of a random choice and i am SO glad i picked it up. It actually seems like it was written by Bob without a whole lot of polishing up by an editor...he's a stoked guy, and was right there witnessing, participating in, and creating a critical few years of surfing history. Now world renowned spots being explored for the first time, and board designs being altered radically and quickly to keep pace.
I used to read my friends copy of "tan burrows book of hot surfing" That's about the extent of it. Doubt if read a surf story book.
In the middle of Mike Hynson's memoir: Trancendental Memories of a Surf Rebel. Has a lot of stuff about the Brotherhood and drug smuggling. I have to wonder if Hynson is full of ****e or not.
