Surf Club Battle

Discussion in 'Northeast' started by Lee Majors, Dec 27, 2015.

  1. therealjrjr

    therealjrjr Active Member

    32
    Sep 23, 2015
    I have zero balls when it comes to human interaction. Zero. I am such a *****. And, for Judith's sake (bodysurfer), she did not date that old cock ****.

    It was not Doc Renneker. He was a super nice guy.

    9'@24 at ocean beach ranges from 20 foot plus faces at Taraval to 15 foot plus everywhere else. It was huge. That day i paddled out at Sloat. I think that was 2000. Sloat was really good back then. It had an actual beach. Last i heard, the beach was gone and the road was falling into the ocean.

    I loved surfing there on big swells. The zoo was right there and you could hear the monkeys going crazy whenever a big wave would explode.

    I paddled out at Taraval on a few real big days. My understanding is that its deep water all the way into Taraval, allowing the wave to keep its energy prior to unloading. The rest of the beach, the wave would feel the bottom and lose some steam pretty far out.

    Regardless, the few times i paddled out at Taraval, i found myself sitting there watching the Brazilians on 7 foot boards paddling into some bombs. I'd be on my 8'2" Arikawa feeling like i was on bad acid.